WENDY PERRIN REPORTS FROM MARINA’S GRAND PANAMA CANAL VOYAGE

If you read The Perrin Post, Wendy Perrin’s blog for Condé Nast Traveler, you know that she has been sharing photos and stories from her adventures onboard Marina’s Grand Panama Canal cruise. So far she has offered a couple of posts on how to recover luggage lost by the airline, great stories of the guests she has met and the activities onboard this 20-day cruise and some wonderful photos and information about the Panama Canal and Cartagena.

Onboard Marina as a guest lecturer, Perrin is offering practical travel tips and fascinating stories about places that every travel lover should visit. To see her posts on her travels with Oceania Cruises, check out her blog.

 

THE VIEW FROM KOTOR

Riviera has arrived in Europe for the summer, and today she calls on lovely Kotor, Montenegro. As Blogger-at-Large for Oceania Cruises, I recently had the pleasure of visiting this charming town and have many fond memories and fantastic photos from my time spent there.

As with many costal towns, the views are among the most memorable aspects of a visit to this beautiful little city, nestled in a secluded area of the Gulf of Kotor just off the Adriatic Sea. The inlet on which the town lies has been called the southernmost fjord in Europe, but technically it is not a fjord. It is actually a ria, a coastal inlet formed by a submerged river valley. Regardless of the scientific name, the result of nature’s work is spectacular scenery. When calling on Kotor, you most definitely want to be on deck as the ship sails into port.

Flanking the ship, forested mountains rise out of the tranquil sea as you sail the meandering route toward Kotor. As you approach, you can see two diminutive islands off the coast from the town of Perast, each island just large enough to support a religious edifice. The manmade island is home to the Church of Our Lady of the Rocks, and a Benedictine monastery stands on the natural island, known as St. George Island (pictured below).

Continuing on to the far end of the cove, you are greeted by the charming coral-tiled roofs of the Old Town of Kotor. The town was settled in ancient Roman times and became an important center of trade in this region in the Middle Ages. Four centuries of Venetian rule gave Kotor its Venetian look and feel, including the fortifications that still surround the Old Town. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, it is one of the best-preserved medieval towns in the Adriatic. Several monuments, including the Cathedral of Saint Tryphon and the town walls, were seriously damaged by an earthquake in 1979, but the town has since been meticulously restored.

Just a short walk from the cruise pier, the Old Town is primarily pedestrian and thus best appreciated on foot. I had a wonderful time exploring the narrow, winding lanes with photo opportunities around every corner.

The inscription above the entrance to the walled Old Town reads, “What belongs to others we don't want; what is ours we will never surrender.” The 10th century Cathedral of Saint Tryphon certainly embodies the “never surrender” spirit. Badly damaged in two earthquakes, it stands beautifully preserved today. After the first quake in the 15th century, it took years to raise the funds and complete the reconstruction, which accounts for the different styles of the two towers. One of only two Catholic churches in Montenegro, it was built in honor of Kotor’s patron saint and protector.

Behind the Old Town, an ancient stone pathway consisting of more than 1,300 stairs leads to the old fortress perched on the mountain. Along the way you pass the lovely 15th century Church of Our Lady of Health, which offers another fantastic photo opportunity, not to mention an excuse to rest a bit from climbing. If you have the stamina to reach the Castle of St. John, you will be rewarded with amazing views of the town, the bay and your ship. The climb is a challenging one, but it is definitely worth the effort!

As my day in Kotor drew to a close, the wind picked up and the rain clouds began to roll in. But not even gray skies could diminish the beauty of the view as we sailed out of the bay.

I am grateful to Oceania Cruises team member Vanessa Cordo and Oceania Cruises guest Peter Pretty, who also contributed some fabulous photos from their visits to Kotor. Guests onboard Riviera today are the first of the season to call on this gorgeous destination. I have no doubt they are enjoying a truly memorable day and capturing many photos of their own!

BARCELONA AND ITS UNFINISHED MASTERPIECE: THE SAGRADA FAMILIA

Of the many signs that spring has sprung, one of my favorites is the arrival of Oceania Cruises’ ships in Europe. This year Riviera was the first to arrive, and she began her European season in the spectacular city of Barcelona.

Cruises often commence or conclude in Barcelona, and on my previous voyages as Blogger-at-Large, my schedule had forced me to arrive just in time to embark or to fly home immediately after disembarking. If you begin or end a voyage in Barcelona, I highly recommend taking advantage of Oceania Cruises’ pre- or post-cruise hotel packages to allow yourself a few extra days in this wonderful city. From the architecture to the museums to the markets to the promenades, this is a city worth lingering in.

The sights of Barcelona are far too expansive to describe in a single blog, so I’m dedicating this one solely to the Sagrada Família, the magnum opus of famed architect Antoni Gaudí and the most recognizable icon in the city. After visiting the Vatican, my husband said he would never need to visit another church now that he’d seen St. Peter’s Basilica. When he saw the Sagrada Família, he retracted that statement.

The Basílica de la Sagrada Família is Gaudí’s crowning achievement, despite the fact that it remains unfinished to this day. Gaudí worked on the church from 1883 until his death in 1926, and since then different architects have continued the work based on Gaudí’s original design. Because it is an expiatory church, the entire construction has been funded solely by donations, and Gaudí always considered it a church made by and for the people. He knew the project would only be completed long after his death, and he carried out the planning and construction in such a way that each succeeding generation could be responsible for a particular part.

The Nativity façade was one of Gaudí’s first undertakings. It celebrates the birth of Jesus and the Holy Family, to whom the church is dedicated. Three entrances symbolize faith, hope and charity. Above the façade rise towers dedicated to apostles. The bell towers of this façade were completed in 1933, after Gaudí’s death.

Despite severe damage done to the church during the Spanish Civil War in the late 1930s, construction resumed afterward. Most of Gaudí’s original plans were lost, but many pieces of plaster models were recovered. There were also published plans and photographs of the original models available, and many of Gaudí’s followers had created volumes of notes based on information he shared with them. Using these resources, construction was able to continue according to Gaudí’s original vision.

The foundations of the Passion façade were laid in 1954, based on the many studies that Gaudí had done. In contrast to the joyful tone of the Nativity façade, the simple figures on the Passion façade are darkly dramatic and intense, as this section tells the story of Jesus’ pain, sacrifice and death. The sun’s descent casts shadows on the figures that further emphasize their desolation.

The Glory façade is currently under construction and will be the main entrance to the church when it is finished. When the church is complete, it will have 18 towers: 12 dedicated to the apostles, four to the evangelists, one to Jesus and one to Mary.

The interior of the Sagrada Família is just as impressive as the exterior. The system of columns supporting the five naves is unique in the history of architecture. The soaring branches of the columns give the impression of a forest, as the structure and mechanics of trees inspired Gaudí’s design. The cloister is also unique in that it runs all around the church, only interrupted by the doors and the apse. Throughout the interior are stunning works of stained glass; since 1999 many have been designed by artist Joan Vila-Grau.

The Sagrada Família is an astounding achievement. If you travel to Barcelona, be certain to visit this amazing church and witness for yourself the brilliance of Gaudí and the talent and dedication of the people of this city.

50 DAYS AT SEA FOR 50 YEARS OF MARRIAGE

A few days ago I received an email from Peter and Pauline Pretty, loyal Oceania Cruises guests from Oakville, Ontario, sharing several photos from their 50-day Grand Voyage to celebrate 50 years of marriage. You may remember the Prettys from a previous blog post I wrote on their South Pacific cruise or from the article in the January 2013 Your World Your Way brochure. I couldn’t resist the opportunity to share their wonderful photos as well as congratulate them on this amazing milestone.

The Prettys feel at home on the ships of Oceania Cruises, one of the many reasons they return year after year, and celebrating such an important anniversary did not go unnoticed on this momentous sailing. Nautica General Manager Jason Gelineau arranged a special celebration at the Polo Grill, Pauline’s favorite restaurant, and the social director, Emmanuelle, serenaded the couple.

Of course, the best part of the Grand Voyage for these adventurers was the nearly two months spent exploring Africa and Asia onboard Nautica. As Nautica prepares to sail for Europe for the summer, the Prettys’ stories provide a lovely recap of some of the highlights of a wonderful winter season.

The Prettys got a feel for the history and culture of Mozambique during a tour of its capital on the Discover Maputo shore excursion. Stops included the Central Train Station designed by Gustav Eiffel, famous for conceiving the Eiffel Tower in Paris, and also the Museum of Natural History, Independence Square and City Hall. Highlights for the Prettys were the opportunity to observe semi-wild lemurs and a visit to a local market where they shared a moment with these adorable kids.

In Colombo, Sri Lanka, the Prettys took the Ingiriya Tea Plantation shore excursion, where they got an insider’s look at how Sri Lanka’s most important cash crop is cultivated. They watched harvesters pick the fresh tea leaves – 65 to 75 pounds a day are collected – and saw how the leaves are processed. Afterward they enjoyed a freshly brewed cup of tea and were able to purchase some to bring home.

The Prettys frequently enjoyed tea onboard the ship as well because afternoon tea is one of Pauline’s favorite activities. Longer voyages provide the chefs the time to really flex their creative muscles and create an extraordinary event even more splendid than the traditional teatime – the Grand Gala Tea Party. The pastries and cakes were not only beautiful to look at but scrumptious too. Jason and Emmanuelle were among the crew members who were in attendance to celebrate the special occasion.

Back ashore on the Scenic Phuket & Elephant Camp excursion, the Prettys had the chance to ride an elephant after enjoying an impressive show put on by the elephants and their handlers. In this photo the elephant is hoping that the Prettys will tip with bananas.

As a contrast to their adventures in the countryside, the Prettys also visited some of Asia’s grandest cities. Known as the “Garden City,” Kuala Lumpur is a modern urban environment with an abundance of greenery and beautifully landscaped parks. The Petronas Twin Towers, the tallest twin towers in the world, are an indelible feature of the city’s skyline.

The Prettys also enjoyed a day exploring Singapore and the truly unique modern landscape.

 

We’re so pleased the Prettys shared their photos and these wonderful highlights of Nautica’s season in Africa and Asia. If their adventures have inspired you, now is the perfect time to reserve a voyage for next season. Nautica will be back in Africa starting in December with Lands of Grandeur, and then in Asia starting in February with Pagodas & Palaces.

A special thanks to Peter and Pauline for sharing this special occasion with us, and congratulations on 50 years of marriage!

 

LOCAL CHEFS TEACH THE SECRETS OF THAI CUISINE

Anyone who has ever sailed with Oceania Cruises knows that cuisine is a very important part of the experience. From its very beginnings 10 years ago with the appointment of Master Chef Jacques Pépin as Executive Culinary Director, to the exceptional onboard specialty restaurants at no additional charge, to the Bon Appétit Culinary Center offering hands-on cooking classes, Oceania Cruises is unrivaled in its dedication to the culinary arts.

Of course, considering the fascinating worldwide destinations that Oceania Cruises visits, the opportunities for culinary enrichment are as abundant ashore as they are onboard. Numerous shore excursions are available that allow foodies to learn about diverse world cuisines. These excursions were especially appealing to guest lecturer Don Campbell, who recently shared his expertise with guests onboard Nautica.

After a 24-year career with the US Coast Guard, Don traveled the world as a program manager in the aerospace and defense industries. His extensive travels fueled a lifelong passion for discovering world cultures, and he especially enjoys interacting with local people and learning about their art and cuisine. During his voyage onboard Nautica, Don had the chance to not only share his valuable insights with guests but also extend his own knowledge even further on the Thai Cooking Class shore excursion offered in Ko Samui. Don took some great photos during the class and was kind enough to share them with us.

For Thai food lovers, this excursion was an excellent opportunity to learn some of the secrets to preparing this delicious cuisine. The day began with a trip to a Thai market to pick out the fresh ingredients that would be used in the class. Walking through the lively market, guests got a feel for life on the island of Ko Samui as the locals shopped for their own daily staples.

Having purchased the ingredients for the class, the group drove to the Nora Beach Resort & Spa, where the cooking class was taught. After being welcomed with a traditional Thai beverage, guests rolled up their sleeves and got to it. Guests had individual cooking stations and, using the ingredients purchased at the market, prepared a delicious Thai meal.

After a satisfying Thai feast, guests enjoyed some time to relax and explore the lovely resort.

If your mouth is watering after all this discussion of Thai food, you’ll be happy to know that Nautica will be back in Ko Samui on the Pagodas & Palaces sailing on February 6, 2014. You, too, could learn to prepare authentic Thai cuisine on a wonderful voyage with Oceania Cruises!

NUKU HIVA – VISIT TO TAIPIVAI VALLEY

Ancient legend has it that the god of creation promised his wife he would build a house in one day, so he gathered together land and created what is now known as the Marquesas Islands. All of the islands are named after parts of the house; Nuku Hiva is the roof.

Guests onboard Marina recently enjoyed an overnight stay in Nuku Hiva, the roof of the gods, and got to see first hand why the ancient inhabitants of these islands would have come to believe that these islands were the home of deities. 

On the shore excursion Nuku Hiva – Visit to Taipivai Valley, Nuka Hiva’s spectacular beauty unfolded on an off-road adventure in the Taipivai Valley. One of the richest archaeological sites in the Marquesas Islands, Taipivai Valley was made famous by Herman Melville. After deserting his ship, Melville spent several weeks living with the Taipi people, and his experience became the inspiration for his novel Typee.

One of the first stops was the island's main town, Taiohae. Located on the southern coast in the shadow of Mt. Muake, the town is situated in an ancient volcanic crater. Here guests visited the Cathedral of Notre-Dame of Marquesas, built with rocks from the six islands of the Marquesas. The woodcarvings inside are a blend of Marquesan art with iconic Christian symbolism, including a beautiful wooden pulpit.

Exploring Taipivai Valley, guests were treated to a beautiful drive on a steep trail, lined with lush vegetation, that took them through the island’s interior. Along the way, several stops were made to take in spectacular views of the coastline, bays and valleys.

Amidst the stunning scenery, a light lunch was served with fresh local delights.

A drive through Taipivai’s small agricultural villages ended at the picturesque shore village of Hatiheu with a curving black sand beach.

If you have a yen to visit the house that the gods built, 2014 offers several options: South Pacific Isles, January 15, January 25 and March 26, 2014; Tahitian Pearls, April 5, 2014.

OFF-ROAD ADVENTURES IN BEAUTIFUL BORA BORA

The challenge of writing about the islands of the South Pacific is coming up with enough different ways to say “paradise.” Bora Bora is a lush, green paradise surrounded by unfathomably blue waters, and it’s little wonder why so many people dream of visiting this spectacular destination. Marina’s guests are currently enjoying their second day on the island following an overnight stay.

Marina staff member Jessica Domm shared some photographs from a recent shore excursion, Bora Bora Off-Road Adventure, during which she accompanied guests on a thrilling journey to explore places only accessible via vehicles equipped for off-road travel.

Guests enjoyed a drive through the small town of Vaitape on the shore of Pofai Bay with stops along the way to learn about the local flora of Bora Bora.

The tour then ascended Pahonu Hill, offering spectacular views of Bora Bora’s natural harbor and Matira Beach. As Blogger-at-Large for Oceania Cruises, I’ve made fairly liberal use of the word “breathtaking,” but in this case the vibrant colors of the Bora Bora lagoon literally take your breath away. Because of the pristine clarity of the water and the varying depths of the lagoon, nearly every shade of blue you can imagine is represented here in its utter perfection. Some blues compete with the cerulean sky; others seem to be the fluid incarnation of a lapis lazuli or a turquoise gemstone. It’s difficult to stop snapping photos in a desperate attempt to capture the splendor, but if you visit Bora Bora, be sure to allow yourself some time to simply gaze at the spectacular scenery and savor the opportunity to be embraced by such wondrous natural beauty.

Some of the evidence of human history on Bora Bora stands in stark contrast to the island’s natural wonders. During World War II, Bora Bora was a US military supply base with 7,000 military personnel, and seven massive cannons were set up around the island to protect it from potential military attack. Guests on the excursion visited several of the cannons that are still standing in their original locations.

Guests also enjoyed a visit to a local pearl farm. Here they learned about the art of pearl farming and why the world’s best black pearls come from the atolls and lagoons of French Polynesia.

One of the last stops was Antena viewpoint, which offered more stunning views of the sparkling waters, the outer reef that protects the island, and the smaller coral islands known as motus that dot the lagoon.

If you haven’t taken a trip to paradise yet, 2013 and 2014 offer several opportunities to sail the South Pacific with Oceania Cruises: Pacific Paradise, December 28, 2013; South Pacific Isles, January 15, January 25 and March 26, 2014; Pacific Isles & Coral Seas, February 4, 2013; Marvels Of The South Pacific, March 11, 2014; Tahitian Pearls, April 5, 2014; Islands & Incas, April 19, 2014. While you probably won’t want to miss the opportunity to swim in the crystalline waters of Bora Bora, you also might consider a trip into the hills to take in some uniquely scenic views of the seascape, while also experiencing some of the culture and history of this gorgeous island.

 

ANTIGUA: A BEACH FOR EVERY DAY OF THE YEAR

Named by Christopher Columbus after Santa Maria la Antigua, the island of Antigua was first colonized by Christopher Codrington in 1632. Long before the English arrived, the island is believed to have been settled around 3100 BC.

Antigua is one of two main islands in the Caribbean island nation of Antigua and Barbuda, which is said to have 365 beaches, one for every day of the year. After the sugar trade began to diminish, these beautiful beaches became the country’s new commodity, and visitors flock from all over the world to thaw out on one of the many pristine beaches on these gorgeous islands. During my last visit to Antigua as Blogger-at-Large, I was only able to visit a couple of these beaches, but I wish I had an entire year to explore them all!

When visiting Antigua, the ships of Oceania Cruises call on St. John’s, the nation’s capital. One of the first recognizable sights on the city’s skyline is the beautiful white towers of St. John’s Cathedral. After being destroyed in earthquakes in 1683 and 1745, the current incarnation was built in 1845.

One of the most popular shore excursions from St. John’s is the Champagne & Lobster Catamaran Cruise. This excursion is a wonderful way to visit some of the most idyllic beaches of Antigua – and enjoy a fantastic lunch as well!

The crew of the catamaran greet guests just a short walk from where the ship is docked. The boat then cruises along the beautiful coastline of Antigua, making a couple of stops at secluded beaches along the way. There are ample opportunities to swim, snorkel, explore or just relax and take in paradise.

Of course, the highlight of the cruise is lobster fresh off the grill, prepared by the captain and his crew and complemented by a glass of champagne.

There are several other fabulous shore excursions offered on Antigua as well, including an opportunity to swim with stingrays, a tour of galleries dedicated to local artists and kayaking through the mangroves.

Nothing cures the winter blues like the blue waters of the Caribbean, and there are several sailings that visit St. John’s in 2013 and 2014. We look forward to seeing you onboard!

EXPERIENCING THE MAYAN MYSTIQUE

As snow continues to fall in many places around the world, Oceania Cruises’ Riviera is cruising in the warm waters of the Caribbean on the popular Mayan Mystique voyage. Guests are enjoying not only the beautiful weather but also the opportunity to explore some of the fascinating remnants of the ancient Mayan civilization, renowned for its fully conceived written language as well as remarkable advancements in architecture, math and astronomy.

Yesterday in Costa Maya, guests were treated to a wonderful day exploring Kohunlich, the magnificent, multileveled Mayan ruin best known for its Temple of the Masks. Kohunlich was settled in 200 BC, but most of the structures date from 250 to 600 AD.

Named after the Cohune Ridge where Cohune palm trees grow, the ruins include a sunken palace, acropolis, ball court and several courtyards. Kohunlich’s broad range of architecture, natural beauty and seclusion set it apart from the more widely toured sites in the area.

The main attractions are the large humanized stucco masks that flank the central stairway of the Temple of Masks. Built around 500 AD, it is one of the oldest structures at Kohunlich. In the 700s, the temple was covered with another structure, which protected the masks and left them remarkably well preserved.

Guests climbed the pyramid-like temple and got an up-close look at the 10-foot sculpted masks of the Sun God Kinich Ahau, while also enjoying stunning views of the forest surrounding the ruins.

After a remarkable day exploring Kohunlich, guests enjoyed a tasty lunch of regional favorites at the Lagoon Club.

A few days prior during Riviera’s call on Santo Tomas, several guests had the chance to explore the famed Mayan ruins of Tikal. One of the greatest Mayan cities known and studied to date, the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Tikal is nestled in the rainforests of Northern Guatemala. The journey to get to the ruins began on a chartered one-hour flight to the northern region of El Peten, followed by a scenic one-hour drive along forest-lined roadways.

After a one-mile hike through the rainforests surrounding Tikal, the Great Plaza comes into view. The magnificent architecture is still intact after thousands of years. Inhabited since the 6th century BC, the city reached its zenith from 200 to 900 AD. During this time Tikal was one of the most powerful kingdoms of the ancient Maya.

It took the University of Pennsylvania 13 years to uncover 10 square miles of the city, and much of it is still buried in the jungle. The city’s 3,000 structures are largely built with limestone, including temples that are more than 230 feet high, huge royal palaces, smaller pyramids, palaces and homes, as well as administrative buildings and inscribed monuments.

Following a fascinating day at Tikal, guests enjoyed lunch and beautiful views of Lake Peten Itza and the Island of Flores at the Maya International Hotel in Santa Elena.

Because of its immense popularity, the Mayan Mystique cruise will be offered several times in 2014 as well, with departures on January 3, February 2 and March 18. Don’t miss the chance to explore the magnificently preserved ruins of one of the greatest ancient civilizations.

SIGNATURE SAILINGS: A CRUISE … AND THEN SOME

I love sailing with Oceania Cruises. From the food to the familial atmosphere to the incredible destinations, I just can’t get enough. And the Oceania Cruises experience is enhanced even further when you travel on a Signature Sailing. I’ve had the opportunity to enjoy a couple of these sailings, and the featured dinners, guest lecturers and other special events gave me an even greater appreciation for both the onboard experience and the fascinating destinations we were exploring. My favorite Signature Sailings are the ones with a focus on wine and food. On these cruises you can interact with some of the world’s most renowned chefs, sommeliers and culinary experts.

There are three Signature Sailings coming up this summer that offer this fantastic opportunity. The first one departs in less than two months, so if a cruise vacation is in your upcoming plans, don't miss this chance to experience one of these unique voyages.

Wine & Food Celebration

There will be two Signature Sailings for wine and food lovers: Marina’s Grand Panama Canal, a 20-day voyage from Lima to New York City beginning on May 6, 2013, and Riviera’s Mediterranean Grandeur, a 10-day voyage from Monte Carlo to Rome beginning on June 23, 2013.

The Wine & Food Celebration on Marina will take guests on a culinary adventure from South America through the Caribbean, ending in New York. South American wine expert Daniel Soto will host wine lectures and tastings featuring the best of South American wines. Joining Daniel Soto is renowned culinary author Chef Paulette Mitchell, who will demonstrate classic South American dishes that guests can learn to prepare and enjoy at home.

 

Daniel Soto

Paulette Mitchell

 

Valerie Elam

Karen King

During the Caribbean segment of the cruise, Bacardi Rum’s Brand Ambassador Kate Dahlen will be onboard to share the rich history of rum in the Caribbean and give guests a chance to taste some of Bacardi’s best. The executive culinary team from Grand Cayman’s Ritz Carlton will also join Marina’s onboard team to demonstrate some favorite Caribbean dishes.

Kate Dahlen

For the home stretch, guests will have the opportunity to attend wine lectures, tastings and pairing presentations featuring flavors of America with wine expert Karen King and the executive chef of Oceania Cruises’ Bon Appétit Culinary Center, Kathryn Kelly.

Throughout the voyage there will be wine tasting events where guests can sample and discuss different wines with Marina’s wine experts and sommeliers. Once they’ve found a favorite, guests can enjoy wine and conversation as they are serenaded by Valerie Elam, a recording artist and Cape Coral restaurateur.

Panama Canal Transit

 

Tony Didio

Max McCalman

Bon Appétit Culinary Center Executive Chef Kathryn Kelly will host Riviera’s Wine & Food Celebration. She will be joined by several experts, including the Culinary Institute of America’s Master Baker Eric Kastel. An instructor and an author, Kastel will share the secrets of great bread making. 

Renowned New York wine educator, businessman and sommelier Tony Didio will lead a series of wine lectures, tastings and wine pairing presentations throughout the voyage. To complement the wine experience, Master Cheese Expert Max McCalman will be onboard to share the secrets of great cheeses and advise on pairings. Riviera’s onboard experts will also host events, and Valerie Elam will be on this voyage as well to serenade guests as they enjoy great wine and conversation.

Eric Kastel

Chef Kathryn Kelly

Wine Connoisseur Cruise

Marina’s 10-day Baltic Odyssey voyage from Copenhagen to Stockholm beginning on September 3, 2013, will be anchored by Armando Fumanelli, owner of the famed Italian winery Marchesi Fumanelli. A wine ambassador from the winery will also be onboard. Located near Verona, the setting of Romeo and Juliet, the Fumanelli winery has been creating exceptional wines since 1470. Young actors from Verona’s drama academy will be onboard to perform during select Fumanelli wine dinners offered at La Reserve.

This voyage will also feature many wine tasting events during which guests can taste different wines and discuss their attributes with Armando Fumanelli, the Fumanelli ambassador and Marina’s sommeliers. Meanwhile, guests can also enjoy the music of Italian guitarist Vincenzo Martinelli.     

Enjoy an overnight in St. Petersburg on the Baltic Odyssey voyage

Armando Fumanelli

Vincenzo Martinelli

 

 

THOROUGHLY MODERN SHANGHAI

Guests on the Pearls of the Far East voyage onboard Nautica had the opportunity to experience one of the most modern forms of transportation during an overnight stay in Shanghai. The Maglev Train & Pudong shore excursion includes a thrilling ride on the Maglev Train and visits the spectacular skyscrapers of the Lujiazui area in the new Pudong District.

Using groundbreaking German technology, the Maglev Train, short for Magnetic Levitation Train, is Shanghai’s newest, state-of-the-art high-speed train and what many believe to be the 21st century’s revolutionary mode of transportation. With no wheels, the train floats on an electromagnetic cushion and is propelled along a guide way using electromagnetic fields.

The Maglev runs 20.5 miles from Long Yang Lu Station to the Pudong International Airport and can reach speeds of up to 310 miles per hour. It regularly travels 268 miles per hour during daily service, making it one of the fastest commercial train services in the world. On an eight-minute ride to the Pudong Airport, passengers experienced the sensation of flying as the train instantly accelerated to maximum speed.

At Pudong, guests disembarked for a fascinating tour of China’s financial center, which was developed from farmland only in the last two decades. Built in 1999 and towering over 1,300 feet above Shanghai, the Jin Mao building is the seventh tallest building in the world. From the 88th floor, guests had the opportunity to see the city from one of its highest vantage points, observing the iconic Oriental Pearl Tower and many others. 

 

After enjoying breathtaking views of this thoroughly modern city, there was time to do more sightseeing in the area.

If you haven’t had the chance to explore some of Asia’s most exciting ports, including Shanghai, there are several opportunities to do so on Oceania Cruises sailings, including Pearls of the Orient on February 22, 2014, and Ode to the Emperors on March 10, 2014. We’ll look forward to seeing you on the high seas or perhaps high above Shanghai!

PUNTA DEL ESTE, CHEF’S PATIO DINNER AND A CAVIAR BRUNCH ONBOARD THE REUNION CRUISE

Greetings from Brazil and the 9th Oceania Club Reunion Cruise. It’s hard to believe there are only 6 days left, and we still get to visit Porto Belo, São Paulo, Parati, Ilha Grande, Buzios and Rio de Janeiro.

The past few days have been extraordinary and full of wonderful experiences. On Saturday we visited the delightful city of Punta del Este, or the “Peninsula of the East,” where several of our Reunion Cruise guests took the exclusive shore excursion The Iconic Art & Flavor of Punta del Este. This lovely city on a scenic peninsula is known for its beautiful beaches. We started the day at Brava Beach where there is an open-air collection of sculptures, including the famous Mano de Desierto, or “Hand of the Desert,” by Mario Irarrázabal.

Oceania Club Manager Nick DeSantis at Mano de Desierto

Our next stop was the Ralli Museum, which has several galleries all over the world. The first was established here in Punta del Este in 1988; the second in Santiago, Chile, in 1992; the third (Ralli 1) in Caesarea, Israel, in 1993; the fourth in Marbella, Spain, in 2000; and the fifth (Ralli 2) in Caesarea, Israel, in 2007. The Ralli Museums house one of the most important collections of contemporary Latin American art in the world.

Then we moved on to the Pablo Atchugarry Foundation, a nonprofit organization founded by renowned artist Pablo Atchugarry in 2007 to promote visual arts, literature, music and other creative pursuits. Atchugarry, a prolific artist, began sculpting when he was only eight years old and had his first show at age 11.

Before the end of the tour, we stopped for lunch at Finca Narbona, where we ate wonderful locally made cheeses and fresh cold cuts and enjoyed some delicious wines. Punta del Este is one of my favorite stops so far!

The following evening, we had a special Reunion Cruise Chef's Patio Dinner for a few of our guests who have sailed with us the most. It was hosted by Senior Vice President of Sales Michael Hirsch, Oceania Club Ambassador Cary Arias, Chief Purser Gurdep Besla, Human Resources Manager Maria Cormane and myself. The six-course meal was selected by Executive Chef Lisa Anne Jones and prepared by Sous Chef Thorsten Czap. We started with a crispy polenta with olive tapenade and cherry tomato confit, followed by a main course of either Chilean sea bass with palmito salad or roast veal rack with rosemary and glazed vegetables.

The dessert, chosen especially to celebrate Oceania Cruises’ 10th anniversary, was a Manjari chocolate bar with milky yuzu-flavored gianduja chocolate and hazelnut croquant. Everything was incredible. It was an evening to remember!

The next day we had another very special event – a caviar brunch in the Grand Dining Room. Everyone onboard had an opportunity to enjoy this delicious feast. There was a full brunch menu, including caviar, as well as complimentary mimosas and Bloody Marys. If you are on a Reunion Cruise in the future, I highly recommend attending this event. Everyone had a wonderful time!

Later that morning there was a one-hour Town Hall Meeting for guests that was hosted by Michael Hirsch, General Manager Carlo Gunetti and yours truly. The turn-out was great, with more than 100 guests in attendance. Cruise Director Leslie Jon moderated the Town Hall and asked our panel a variety of questions based on past guest feedback.

One request was that I talk about some of the exciting new features in our enhanced Oceania Club loyalty program. The new program started at the beginning of this year with the introduction of a new “Blue” level of membership, plus additional benefits for all existing levels. This information can found in the Oceania Club section of Oceania Cruises’ website, as well as in many of our brochures.

We still have a lot of planned activities for the remainder of the cruise, including an evening pool deck party and an Oceania Club cocktail party. We will also be honoring our 14 Silver level Oceania Club members and 56 Bronze members, 26 of whom will be receiving their Bronze pins! There are still more exciting days to come on the 9th Oceania Club Reunion Cruise!

NICK DESANTIS SHARES STORIES FROM THE OCEANIA CLUB REUNION CRUISE IN SOUTH AMERICA

Greetings from the 9th Oceania Club Reunion Cruise, sailing from Buenos Aires to Rio de Janeiro on the lovely Regatta! As manager of the Oceania Club, I am always so pleased to see past guests onboard with whom I have sailed before, and many have become dear friends. I also love meeting other Oceania Club members for the first time and having the opportunity to thank them for their loyalty.

In short, everyone is having a wonderful time and it has only just begun! Though a lot of work went into the planning of the cruise, one thing my team cannot control is the weather, but this has not been a problem because the weather in Buenos Aires was better than we ever could have planned. Of course, there are a lot of things we can control, so the day I arrived, Oceania Cruises Senior Vice President of Sales Michael Hirsch and I met with the senior staff to go over the itinerary, make sure we were all on the same page and see if there were any final details that needed to be ironed out. We all want this voyage to be unforgettable!

I was happy to find that there are a few members of the Regatta team with whom I've had the pleasure of sailing on previous Reunion Cruises: Captain Jurica Brajcic, Oceania Club Ambassador Cary Arias, Cruise Director Leslie Jon and Restaurant Manager Vladimir Cavic. Everyone understands what an important and fantastic event this Reunion Cruise is, especially in the year of our 10th anniversary, a milestone we attribute to the unprecedented loyalty of Oceania Cruises’ guests.

On our second day in Buenos Aires, we hosted one of the first Reunion Cruise tours, Discover Historic Buenos Aries. It was a half-day tour and included a stop at the Plaza de Mayo, the site of the salmon-colored presidential palace known as Casa Rosada with its famed balcony where Eva Peron once addressed adoring crowds.

We had the chance to sip coffee at the oldest café in Argentina where notables from Jorge Luis Borges to Albert Einstein once gathered. Before heading back to the pier, we explored El Zanjón de Granados, believed to be the site of Buenos Aires’ first settlement.

To kick off our first night at sea, we gathered for an exclusive dinner at Toscana with most of our 70 Oceania Club guests who have reached the Bronze level or above. I had the pleasure of hosting three couples, all of whom have traveled extensively throughout the world (even beyond the 30-plus countries I’ve visited, which I once thought was an impressive total!). These three couples will be staying onboard for several subsequent cruises. In fact, there are about 95 guests staying onboard Regatta until the ship arrives in Miami in April.

Starting from the left: Mrs. Dunn (Bronze), Mr and Mrs. Hopkins (Silver), Nick DeSantis, Mr. and Mrs. Lindley (Bronze) and Mr. Dunn (Bronze)

It was a truly wonderful evening, followed by a beautiful sunrise that greeted us in Montevideo the next day. I can’t wait to share more of our exciting exploration of the east coast of South America.

OCEANIA CRUISES LAUNCHES FIRST-EVER TV ADVERTISING CAMPAIGN

Today Oceania Cruises reaches another milestone in the company’s history. We are launching our first ever television advertising campaign. Airing on national networks in cities on the East and West coasts, the new 30-second spot begins running today and showcases the brand’s pillars of destinations, cuisine, onboard experience and value. 

The first scene opens on an Oceania Cruises ship at sea and highlights the experiences guests can “wake up” to every day, like visiting the Taj Mahal in India or the Meteora monasteries in Greece, whale watching in Alaska or a gondola ride in Venice. The ad transitions to the onboard experience and Oceania Cruises’ extraordinary cuisine, focusing on the freedom guests have to decide when, where and with whom they will dine.

 

The ad campaign is timed to coincide with the launch the 2014 Summer Collection, the largest offering in Oceania Cruises’ history. Unveiled on February 13th, the collection encompasses 90 voyages, an almost entirely new line-up of European itineraries and the highly anticipated return of Insignia. The five ships in the fleet – Marina, Riviera, Regatta, Insignia and Nautica – will sail to more than 330 destinations throughout the world.

The Oceania Cruises family is always growing, and with this television campaign, we hope more people than ever will hear about the fascinating destinations, luxurious ships, exquisite cuisine and extraordinary value of the Oceania Cruises experience.

OCEANIA CRUISES ANNOUNCES 2014 SUMMER COLLECTION

It is one of the most exciting days of the year in the offices of Oceania Cruises, as today we unveiled our 2014 Summer Collection, featuring 90 voyages, 10 new ports of call and an almost entirely new line-up of European itineraries. Perhaps most exciting, Insignia will return to the fleet in the summer of 2014 after a two-year charter. All five ships in the fleet – Riviera, Marina, Regatta, Insignia and Nautica – will sail to more than 180 destinations throughout the world. The 2014 cruise collection features 70 European cruises, 93 percent of which are new itineraries, plus 10 Alaska voyages, seven all-new Canada/New England cruises and three Panama Canal voyages. 

Oceania Cruises President Kunal S. Kamlani said he is thrilled about the new line-up of itineraries. “Our newest cruise collection is the largest in the company’s history with five ships visiting Europe, Alaska and Canada/New England,” he said. “Our guests will love the new and exciting options for exploring the world with a wide range of seven- to 24-day cruises, a mix of overnight and extended stays, and new ports of call in Albania, France and Greece, to name a few. 

“Bookings open today, and we are encouraging travelers to act quickly to secure the suite or stateroom of their choice. In addition to our two-for-one cruise fares, free airfare and bonus savings, guests who book by May 31, 2013, receive the added value of complimentary pre-paid gratuities on every sailing,” Kamlani added.

We hope to welcome you onboard for a wonderful voyage with Oceania Cruises in the summer of 2014!

USHUAIA: A TRIP TO THE END OF THE WORLD

According to ancient human fossils found in Tierra del Fuego dating back 8,500 to 11,500 years ago, humans lived in this remote region long before it became known as the “Land of Fire.” The name “Tierra del Fuego” was coined by Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan in 1520 when his ships arrived at this southernmost tip of South America. It is thought that, in the mists of dawn, the dispersed fires and columns of smoke from the native populations seemed to float on the water, thus giving this archipelago its name.

Regatta recently called on Ushuaia, the capital city of the Tierra del Fuego province. Ushuaia is the southernmost urban center in the world and the closest city to the South Pole. In December and January, the region enjoys 17 hours of daylight. Despite its isolation and harsh conditions during the colder months of the year, or perhaps because of these things, there is a lot to see and do in and around Ushuaia. During Regatta’s recent visit, guests took an unforgettable trip on the Southern Fuegian Railway, also known as the End of the World Train, through Tierra del Fuego National Park to Lapataia Bay.

Completely cut off from the rest of South America, Tierra del Fuego was developed in the 19th century as a penal colony where Argentina sent its worst criminal offenders because escape was virtually impossible. The prisoners were expected to take care of themselves, and a railway was built to transport wood from the forests for heating and building.

Now a tourist attraction through this remote national forest, the unique train transports guests across rivers and peat bogs, the beautiful formations of peat moss for which this region is known. There was a brief stop at the Macarena Waterfall Station, where guests saw the lovely falls and also heard about Tierra del Fuego’s indigenous people, the Yamana.

Arriving at Lapataia Bay, the group was met by a catamaran and treated to a cruise through Beagle Channel. These waters are among the best in the world for trout fishing, but on this day the cormorants, sea lions and seals were the stars of the show.

The cruise visited Les Eclaireurs Lighthouse, which is also known as the Lighthouse at the End of the World. Put into service in 1920, it guards the entrance to Ushuaia and is now controlled remotely.

Quite comfortable with tourists, the seals and sea lions on Seal Island and Isla de los Lobos went about their business of napping and playing, unaffected by the arrival of spectators.

Island of the Birds is home to cormorants and other sea birds and a few seals and sea lions as well.

There are numerous other thrilling adventures to be had at the end of the world for those looking to explore the majestic wilderness of South America. Marina will stop in Ushuaia on South American Holiday, which departs on December 8, 2013, as will Regatta on the February 3, 2014 sailing, Mystical Andes & Majestic Fjords.

 

EASTER ISLAND AND THE MYSTICAL MOAI

Over 1,200 miles from the nearest inhabited island and over 2,000 miles from Tahiti and Chile, Easter Island is one of the most remote inhabited islands in the world. On Marina’s recent call here, guests had a beautiful sunny day to explore this mysterious island and the centuries old relics left by a once thriving population.

The name “Easter Island” was coined by a Dutch explorer who encountered the island on Easter Sunday in 1722. The Polynesian name, Rapa Nui, is said to refer to its resemblance to the Island of Rapa in the Bass Islands, but some claim that Rapa was the original name given by settlers.

Uninhabited by humans for millions of years, it is believed that a group of seafarers, probably from the Marquesas, landed on Easter Island in 300 AD. With very few safe places to disembark, legend has it that King Hoto Matua landed a double-hulled canoe on Anakena Beach and founded the first settlement.

Marina’s guests enjoyed a gorgeous day frolicking in the crystal clear blue waters at Anakena Beach and were even visited by some wild horses, a common sight on the island. Horses were brought here by settlers years ago and now roam the island untamed. Some estimates put the population of wild horses as high as 10,000.

What draws the more than 50,000 visitors each year are the 887 mystical moai statues carved by the ancient inhabitants of this island. The tallest statue is nearly 22 feet high and weighs 82 tons, and thus a great deal of mystery surrounds the methods that would’ve been used to construct and transport these impressive monuments, built long before the benefit of modern machinery.

Almost half of the moai are still at the main quarry where the statues were carved. The quarry is filled with statues that were never completed, including the largest moai that, if completed, would have been 71 feet tall and weighed an estimated 270 tons.

The other half of the known statues were completed and moved across the island. No one is sure exactly how this miraculous feat was accomplished. Legends tell of people enlisting divine powers to command the statues to walk, while other theorists describe an intricate system using ropes, trees and human labor.

By 1868 all of the statues on the island had been toppled. Some accounts recall an island clan pushing a statue over, but others refer to “earth shaking,” and it is believed that an earthquake may have been responsible for the toppling of the statues. Today, because of preservation efforts, about 50 moai have been re-erected on their ceremonial sites.

Marina will return to Easter Island in April 2013 on the Pacific Mysteries sailing, in December 2013 on the Pacific Paradise sailing, and in April 2014 on the Islands & Incas sailing. All three voyages are featured in Oceania Cruises’ latest Your World Your Way brochure that is hot off the presses. If you haven’t had a chance to visit this remarkable island, hopefully you will be able to take advantage of one of these wonderful voyages. 

EXPLORING BOUNTIFUL BUENOS AIRES WITH CHEF KELLY

My history with Argentina has more to do with horses than it does with food. As the owner of an equestrian breeding operation in Middleburg, Virginia, I hired my fair share of über-talented Argentinian jockeys and trainers, not to mention polo players, and I recall how special Sundays were to my Argentinian cohorts. The Sunday night festival of food, drink, dance and intense conversation (which, by the way, started at 10 pm) went well into Monday morning on more than a few occasions.

My recent trip to Buenos Aires was all about the food, as I was scouting great locations for a Culinary Discovery Tour that will be offered later this year.

Buenos Aires is intoxicating, and the panoply of restaurants and cuisines is dizzying. But my quest was to find the pulse of emerging culinary trends, which often involves the preservation of regional or traditional cuisines. Barbecued meats, known as asado, will always be a staple here, but I also noticed culinary trends that went beyond the Argentinian fascination with meat and embraced other aspects of this rich culinary culture. With the help of my delightful guide Eugenia, I was transported into the belly of the Argentinian culinary scene and discovered a passionate commitment to the regional cuisines of this diverse country, deference to the cooking methods of native populations and a celebration of pre-Columbian cooking traditions.

We set out first to explore local markets, an increasingly rare venue in cosmopolitan cities worldwide. Eugenia selected Mercado San Telmo built in 1897 by Juan Buschiazzo as an open, airy, glass-filled arcade, the perfect haven for artists, butchers, bakers, antique dealers, spice mongers, cheese makers and anyone with a unique product to sell.

We strolled through the colorful stalls of fruits and vegetables, and it was clear that we were here in the middle of summer – the tomatoes were irresistible.

Argentinians do love their meat, so finding chorizo (pork sausage), morcilla (blood sausage) and assorted embutidos (sausages) was not difficult. Eugenia pointed out the choripan, a beef and pork sausage that is the official street food of Argentina. It’s typically grilled and placed in a soft bun with chimichurri sauce.

As we made our way through the market, we noticed a line at the stand for quesos artesanales, the local artisan cheeses. You can often sense the immigrant heritage of a place in its cheese, and Buenos Aires is no exception. While cheese is integral to Latin cuisine in general, here you can see the influx of the Spanish and Italian cheeses – esparto-woven manchego and the peppery Sicilian pepato made from sheep’s milk.

I was determined to find some spices, so I was thrilled when we stumbled across a treasure trove at a stand run by a man and his son. I have learned over the years that being genuine wins over being pretentious, so I confessed that I was a chef interested in trying some of his best spice mixes.

The truth is, I am a chimichurri addict, and I was most interested in uncovering any secret ingredients in this heavenly salsa of the gods. Chimichurri, besides being one of those words I just love to say, is typically served by the spoonful with grilled meats in Argentina. It is a blend of herbs, garlic, olive oil and vinegar, with some heat from black pepper or pepper flakes. Chimichurri is a lot like Indian garam masala in that it will vary from household to household, each cook having his or her own secret blend. When I was in Barcelona, I learned that many a Spanish chef has embellished chimichurri by adding pimenton (Spanish paprika) for a smoky, herbaceous flavor. I've shared my favorite chimichurri recipe with you below.

Needless to say, I walked away with not only the owner’s private blend of chimichurri spices – and instructions on how to bring the dried herbs to life – but also a sampling of both smoky and sweet pimenton and the house blend of maté. The dried leaves of the yerba maté plant make a heady tea with a bitter, tobacco-like taste, often sweetened with large amounts of sugar and a dried citrus peel.

As the granddaughter of a poultry farmer, I always make a stop at the egg vendor to jog my memory on what breeds of chicken lay what size and color eggs. On this day there were not only organic eggs but also double-yolk eggs, which I grew up believing was impossible to tell until you broke the egg! I have done the research since, and while there are a few hybrids that are bred to lay double-yolk eggs, it appears that, by and large, this is still one of nature’s wrapped packages, and the single-versus-double surprise is left until the shell is cracked open. I will continue to search, and perhaps in the meantime, Harold McGee can get to the bottom of this mystery!

After an informative and invigorating stroll through the Mercado San Telmo, we were off to explore potential sites for a luncheon for our Culinary Discovery Tour guests. Our first stop, La Ventana, was selected because it personifies the gaucho barbecue and allows guests to learn about the unique cuts of Argentinian beef as well as taste the country’s celebrated cherry-rich Malbec wines. La Ventana is also a popular nightspot for tango dancing, which is one of those experiences I would encourage anyone to put on their bucket list.

Our next stop was El Maté Café: The Argentine Experience. We were greeted by the chef and his partner, who not only run a trendy nightspot but also offer classes on Argentinian cuisine and wine. It’s a hands-on cooking school where seasonality and authenticity reign supreme. I was impressed! Eugenia had brought a group here recently, and she raved about the experience.

After a morning of exploring, we were ready to sit down and enjoy an Argentinian lunch. We chose Aldo’s Vinoteca, known more for its wines than its food, although the food was outstanding. After a tour of the restaurant, the private dining room and the wall-to-wall wines, we settled in and chose a wine from the seemingly endless wine list. As I am known to do, I beckoned the lovely sommelier and asked her to select wines for us, and she did not disappoint. 

We started with a Torrontes from the northern region of Salta. This searing, brilliantly acidic wine had the heady floral aromatic of a botrytis dessert wine. It was paired with our humita, a delicious pudding of corn and creamy brie wrapped in a cornhusk.

Next was a filet steak grilled to perfection and served with an arugula salad. The pairing was a 2010 Mundo Revés Malbec, a smooth and full-bodied companion to our entrée. I was intrigued by the wine list presented on an iPad, but I guess I have been sailing for too long, as I hear this is no longer a novelty at shoreside restaurants.

 

After lunch we said goodbye to our gracious hosts and returned to our car. (Our driver confessed to me that he had lunched at McDonald’s. I am not sure if that was meant to impress or not.) My knowledgeable guide wanted us to stop at one more place: Havanna. This café is known for its prized dulce de leche cookies. Dulce de leche is a sweet milk and sugar spread that is an iconic treasure of Argentina. It is used like Hershey’s syrup on everything from morning toast to cookies (in between shortbread cookies like an Oreo) to ice cream.

After I filled my market bags with Havanna cookies (for class tomorrow, I swear!), we made one final quick stop at the famous Volta ice creamery for a dulce de leche ice cream cone. To be honest, I am usually not much for sweets, but this was a little piece of heaven.

As always, I am indebted to the generosity of my guides selected by Oceania Cruises’ local tour operators. It was a day well spent, and as I returned to Marina, I was convinced that this was yet another essential destination for a Culinary Discovery Tour. I hope you can join us next December when Marina returns to Argentina and sample some of the treasures I uncovered on this scouting mission!

Chimichurri Recipe:

1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, washed

1 bunch cilantro, washed

6 to 10 cloves garlic, peeled

1 tablespoon dried oregano

1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

1 teaspoon dried thyme

1/2 cup champagne vinegar or white distilled vinegar

3/4 cup grapeseed oil or mild extra virgin olive oil

1 teaspoon kosher salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

Pinch of smoked paprika (pimenton), optional

Place all ingredients in a food processor and blend, adjusting the amount of garlic to taste. If the sauce is the consistency of a thick paste, thin with more oil. Sauce can be stored in the refrigerator in a tightly sealed container for up to 2 weeks. 

CHEF KELLY SCOUTS LOCATIONS FOR A CULINARY DISCOVERY TOUR IN RIO DE JANEIRO

Brazil, like so many places, is an amalgam of cultures. The influx of the Portuguese settlers and the slaves from West Africa along with the native Brazilian Indians have created a dizzying collection of regional cuisines.

I find the cuisines of tropical areas fascinating, largely because they make use of the abundance of freshly grown ingredients without having to rely on culinary “crutches” like butter and cream.

The Fjords and Wonders cruise sailed last month from Rio de Janeiro amidst beautiful sunny skies and temperatures a bit higher than the average for this time of year. I was taking over for Chef Annie Copps, who had been on Marina since September. Before she boarded her flight back to the US for a well-deserved holiday, we took our almoco – the Brazilian mid-day meal – at Porcão, a popular churrascaria on Ipanema beach. 

It was buffet-style with many Portuguese and Brazilian favorites, like coxinha (chicken croquettes), a variety of beans (broad beans, black-eyed peas, black beans) and scrumptious fruit salads made with tropical rainforest fruits. As is typical of these barbecue restaurants, the passadors – knife-wielding, meat-toting waiters – circulated with grilled steaks and sausages on skewers, slicing off portions of grilled meat tableside. Luckily for me, I was able to return to the ship and take a nap!

My first morning in Rio, I arranged for a guide to take me to a few culinary highlights of the city. Carlos was an avid home cook and was keen to share his love of Brazilian cuisine. My mission for the day was to design a Culinary Discovery Tour to be offered in this vibrant city starting in December 2013. I was also joined by Illiana, a member of our Destination Services team, all of whom are always helpful in crafting the perfect day for our foodie guests.

I like to visit fish and produce markets early, so this was our first stop. I had already visited Mercado São Pedro in Niterói, which is sure to be a hit with our guests, so on this morning we went to Mercado Cadeg in the Benfica neighborhood, to research a second option. It is a commercial-grade market where the flowers as well as the produce are highly regarded by locals and chefs. With its high ceilings and colorful aisles, the Mercado Cadeg is a nice place to shop and also people watch from one of the many quaint stand-up cafés and family-style luncheonettes.

The Portuguese influence on Brazilian cuisine is evident in the multitude of bacalhau vendors, with their layers upon layers of salted and dried cod. During our Culinary Discovery Tours in Portugal and Spain, we frequently encounter salt cod and admire the quality of the preservation and the many varieties that can be purchased. Carlos suggested we try the fried cod cake made with mashed potato and deep-fried. It was delicious, especially with an über strong cup of Brazilian coffee. Carlos told us that these two local favorites were a typical mid-morning snack. Caffeine and cod – what an unusual combination! He also shared his grandmother’s recipe for cod cakes (oddly enough, the same recipe as my grandmother’s!): equal parts potato and cod combined with onion, celery, chives and garlic and then rolled into small balls and dipped in egg and bread crumbs. Be sure to soak the cod well, rinsing three to four times to remove the salt.

Because it was early in the day, we peeked into several of the restaurants that line the aisles of the Mercado Cadeg to see what was on the menu for lunch. The place that caught my eye was Gruta São Sebastião, where several cod dishes were the specials of the day. Bacalhau à lagareira, a Portuguese recipe, is best when quality olive oil is used to sauté the fish and when served alongside smashed potatoes or a root vegetable soaked in the same high quality olive oil. Apparently the lines outside this local hot spot are quite lengthy around lunchtime, and I was excited to have arrived early enough to have a chance to take a quick stroll through the kitchen (with the permission of the chef) to see the impressive mise en place of fresh vegetables, fish and sausages.

The Brazilians love their peppers! The market was full of colorful fresh peppers, which are an integral ingredient in the relishes found on Brazilian tables, much like ketchup and mustard on American tables. If you don’t find a relish you like, an assortment of hot sauces is always in abundant supply!

After an enjoyable morning at the market, we were off to eat at Restaurante Aprazível, an authentic Brazilian restaurant enjoyed by foodie tourists and locals alike. As we drove to the restaurant, we toured the winding streets and unique architecture of the neighborhood of Santa Teresa. The artist-colony feel of this neighborhood reminded me a little of Nob Hill in San Francisco with its charming homes, shops and restaurants. We passed the famous Bar do Mineiro, home of the best feijoada in Rio de Janeiro, according to Carlos. Feijoada is considered by many to be the national dish of Brazil. It’s often made with meat scraps, such as pigs’ ears and feet, and served with black beans.

Dining at Restaurante Aprazível was a bit like sitting in a tree house in a tropical forest. As the three of us sat for lunch, I was reminded of how often a dining table unites us, as a meal compels us to share the traditions of our culture with others. Our party was from Croatia, Brazil and the United States, and yet each dish evoked a personal comparison to some meal, memory or cooking technique.

Our gracious host suggested we start our lunch with a local cocktail. The cheery bartender stood behind a large wooden bowl with a staggering array of tropical fruits at his disposal along with the ever-present cachaça, a distilled liquor made from cane sugar. When asked to pick a fruit, I chose a combination of passion fruit (maracujá) and star fruit (carambola). Illiana selected the stunning red strawberries. Carlos, who was driving, enjoyed an iced maté, a strong local black tea. Given that the temperature was unseasonably hot, the drinks went down easily and we were able to forget (or not care about) the heat and humidity. My drink had a sprig of rosemary as garnish, which tempered the sweet passion fruit. It was heavenly!

As I frequently do, I asked our waiter to suggest some local favorites for lunch. Our first course was pastels, fried pastries filled with meat and vegetables, similar to empanadas. Two relishes were served as accompaniments, one of onion and peppers and another of pickled peppers. The pickled relish was made with pimentas malaguetas, and these fiery hot peppers preserved in oil, vinegar and cachucha are a standard condiment on most Brazilian tables. (So much for the timid dash of hot sauce – these people are serious about their heat!) Apparently Brazilian pastels are regional, and the different stuffings and cooking methods, such as fried versus baked, define the region.

The next course was roasted yuca, mild sausages, lime wedges and warmed dende oil, a palm oil that was brought to Brazil by the West African slaves. It has a unique nutty taste. The yuca was starchy, but with the fat of the sausages and the sour limes, it was a perfect mouthful! The limes in Brazil are a little sweeter and milder than varieties elsewhere, and we were warned that the lime oils would stain our hands a mustard color when exposed to the sun if we did not wash them. Guess I won’t be drinking many caipirinhas on the beach!

Next up was patinha de caranguejo, a bowl of steamed crab claws with canjiquinha (dried corn), tamarind mustard sauce and the ever-present farofa, a favorite Brazilian side dish of warmed and toasted manioc flour.

The highlight of our appetizers was roasted fresh palmitos (hearts of palm), which were doused in olive oil and an herbaceous pesto and carved and served tableside. I had never had fresh hearts of palm, so this was a real treat. My research shows that it takes 12 years to grow the heart to three to four inches in diameter, at which point it is harvested from the mature palm. No wonder it is such a treat!

Having sampled meats at the churrascaria the day before, I wanted to try some local fish. We were served a perfectly tender, grilled tropical fish – a locally caught snapper – with an orange sauce and roasted banana. In contrast, we tried a moquequinha, a fish stew in a savory and flavorful sauce of coconut milk, roasted peppers, ground nuts and herbs.

After a delicious lunch in the treetops with the occasional monkey swinging from tree to tree, we headed back to Marina with our hearts and tummies full from the generosity of our lovely hosts at Restaurante Aprazível. On the way we saw a bus converted into a mobile produce store – perhaps the next generation of food trucks!

Considering our wonderful experiences in Rio, we will be sure to return this winter with a Culinary Discovery Tour to retrace this phenomenal market tour and lunch!

If you won’t have the opportunity to join us for a Culinary Discovery Tour in the near future, but you’re eager to learn about the cuisines of Latin America, I highly recommend Gran Cocina Latina: The Food of Latin America by Maricel E. Presilla. I’ve been nose deep in this book for the past month, partially because I was traveling to South America onboard Marina, but also because it is heralded as a must-read cookbook of 2012. When Rick Bayless, José Andrés, Jacques Pépin and Harold McGee use words like “sexy scholarship,” “complex and intricate,” “tireless explorer” and “amazing foods that tell a rich history” to describe the book and its author, I am all in!

TAKING IT ALL IN ON THE ISLAND OF TORTOLA

We are having a bit of a cold snap here in Missouri, so when I saw that Riviera was in the British Virgin Islands on January 6, I pulled out the photos I took on my visit to Tortola for a little reminiscing. This particular photo was my favorite because I barely recognized my feet, as they have been bundled up in wooly socks and heavy boots for the last several weeks!

As Blogger-at-Large, I have contributed several posts about the amazing places I have visited in the Caribbean on my travels with Oceania Cruises. Today I want to tell you about one of the most beautiful and peaceful beach days I have ever enjoyed.

But first, a little about the plethora of options guests have to explore from the port in Tortola. For those looking for adventures beyond Tortola, there are several island-hopping shore excursions that let you experience more of the British Virgin Islands. I have taken the Virgin Gorda & the Baths shore excursion and I highly recommend it. There are also several snorkeling or diving adventures available in the crystal blue waters that surround the island of Tortola, as well as excursions to its many gorgeous beaches.

For guests looking for something a bit more cerebral, there is a Historical Sites of Tortola excursion that will give you a sense of the history of this island and its people with visits to museums and important historic sites. Or if you’re traveling onboard Marina or Riviera, there is a Culinary Discovery Tour that visits an organic farm, where you select fresh produce that is used to cook a traditional meal in a yabba pot as you enjoy a beautiful day on the beach.

As wonderful as all of these options sounded to me, I decided to set off on my own adventure when I arrived in Tortola. I had heard that Cane Garden Bay had one of the loveliest beaches on the island, so that was my chosen destination. When we docked, there were taxis and vans available just outside the pier. I found a van to Cane Garden Bay for $8 per person each way, and once the van had enough passengers, it took a group of us to the beach.

It’s a bit of a wild ride over the mountains of Tortola to the other side of the island where Cane Garden Bay is located. It was incredibly scenic and by no means unpleasant, but you may prefer to take an Oceania Cruises excursion if you want to make sure you’re in a newer vehicle and that your travels are being monitored by the ship’s staff. It can also be difficult to find a taxi back to the ship, so if you venture out on your own, be sure to establish a time for your driver to pick you up and return you to the ship. If you want to ensure a carefree day at the beach, an Oceania Cruises shore excursion may be your best option.

Because Tortola’s beaches are exceptionally gorgeous, the island is a popular place to visit. When we arrived, there were two ships docked, and I was told it might be crowded. I was pleasantly surprised when I found that Cane Garden Bay wasn’t crowded at all. In fact, the area where our van dropped us off was practically deserted. This is the most popular beach on the island, so for those looking for complete solitude, I have no doubt a secluded cove or deserted paradise is waiting to be discovered.

For me, Cane Garden Bay was exactly what I was hoping for. The beach had several restaurants and bars just steps from the water and plenty of chairs to rent for $5. The bay was beautiful and the beach was exquisite – gentle waves, perfectly refreshing water and pure, soft sand from the beach all the way into the sea.

My day at Cane Garden Bay was the most peaceful beach day I’ve ever experienced. I was so thoroughly enchanted by the gorgeous beach, the beautiful scenery in every direction and the island life that I did absolutely nothing except enjoy it – I didn’t even take a nap or read a book! I relaxed on the chair and took it all in, occasionally taking a break to wade into the water for a refreshing swim and then return to my chair to dry off in the warm Caribbean sun.

After a truly perfect day relaxing on the beach, I met the van at the appointed time and returned to the ship. To all of you travelers out there escaping the winter cold in the warm blue waters of the Caribbean, I wish you as warm and as wonderful days as I had. To all of you who haven’t yet treated yourself to this experience, I hope you find the opportunity to visit this island paradise on a voyage with Oceania Cruises very soon.

A HAPPY NEW YEAR IN SAN JUAN, PUERTO RICO

Riviera will be in San Juan for New Year’s Eve, and what a beautiful place to be on this day. As Blogger-at-Large, I recently had a wonderful time exploring San Juan and highly recommend taking advantage of one of the many cruises that stop in San Juan during the winter months.

My first stop was the Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico. Housed in a stately building built in the 1920s, it was once the San Juan Municipal Hospital. It is one of the biggest museums in the Caribbean and holds a permanent collection of the most significant Puerto Rican art from the 16th century to the present. In addition, the museum offers numerous temporary exhibitions designed to support the visual arts heritage of Puerto Rico. If you visit, check out the museum’s website to find out what special exhibitions will be featured while you are there.

The museum has added several wings over the years, including a beautiful garden with sculptures by local artists that is naturally framed by trees and plants native to Puerto Rico, as well as water falls, koi ponds and native birds.

After a lovely visit to the museum, I headed to Castillo San Cristóbal, built by the Spanish from 1634 to 1790 to protect against attacks on San Juan. Designed specifically to guard against enemy approaches by land, the fort is on the eastern side of Old San Juan.

The largest fort built by the Spanish in the New World, it covers 27 acres and the views up and down the coast are truly breathtaking. In one direction was the white domed capital building of San Juan, in another, dramatic views of Castillo San Felipe de Morro, built 100 years prior to San Cristóbal to protect from sea attacks. Also along the banks stands the Santa Maria Magdalena de Pazzis Cemetery, the final resting place of many of Puerto Rico’s prominent residents.

The fort has an intricate system of tunnels that allowed Spanish troops to move around the fort unseen. The tunnels were also devised as a defense system and could be secretly loaded with explosives and set off if invading troops attempted to overrun the fort. Because this clever tactic was never used, the tunnels stand in good condition today and are safe for guided exploration.

I spent the last part of my day wandering the streets of Old San Juan and taking in the sights and sounds of this beautiful city. Plaza Colón is a lovely memorial to Christopher Columbus, who landed in Puerto Rico in 1493. (In Spanish, “Christopher Columbus” is “Cristobal Colón.”)

San Juan is an incredibly colorful city, and I was particularly charmed by its blue-tiled streets. The blue cobblestones, called “adoquines,” were used in San Juan in the 16th and 17th centuries. Cast in Spain from the slag of iron furnaces, the bricks were used as ballast in the empty galleons of Spanish ships. When they arrived in Puerto Rico, they would dump the bricks and load the ships with plundered gold and silver for the trip back home. Time and moisture has given the bricks their bluish hue.

My adventures led me to my final stop at Old San Juan’s main square, Plaza de Armas. In the middle of the square, surrounding a fountain, there are four statues, all over 100 years old, that represent the four seasons. I guess they need some representation of the seasons here since it’s 85 degrees year-round in San Juan! The square was beautiful and bustling with daily life.

I bid a fond farewell to this delightful city as we sailed away, and the sail away itself was as lovely a part of the San Juan experience as being on shore. Judging by the number of fellow guests who joined me to watch the island fade into the distance, I would say that this is an occasion not to be missed.

To everyone celebrating onboard Oceania Cruises ships, and to all of you following the blog and dreaming of your next Oceania Cruises vacation, I wish you a Happy New Year! I hope to run into you on the high seas in 2013!

THE UNIQUE BEAUTY OF VIRGIN GORDA

While I am Blogger-at-Large for Oceania Cruises, I am not currently “at large,” but rather home for the holidays. This is one of my favorite times to blog about my Oceania Cruises adventures because, as the winter chill sets in here in Missouri, I can fondly recall the warm sun shining over lovely Virgin Gorda during my recent visit there. One of the best things about a vacation with Oceania Cruises is that you take away memories that will last a lifetime – and will sustain you during the winter doldrums as you dream of your next Oceania Cruises voyage! As I write this, guests onboard Riviera are making memories of their own, for they will call on Virgin Gorda later this week during their idyllic Island Holiday in the Caribbean.

What draws most visitors to this uniquely beautiful island (aside from the fact that it is in the Caribbean, of course) is a beach area known as “The Baths,” located at the southern end of the island. At The Baths, volcanic activity deposited large amounts of granite that eroded into gigantic boulders, creating picturesque tunnels, arches, tidal pools and grottoes.

A short bus or taxi ride from the ship takes you to the trailhead that leads to The Baths. From there you can walk down a rocky path to the beach. The path is a bit steep but easily navigable for the fairly nimble.

Arriving at this beach is unlike arriving at any other beach I’ve visited. After following the winding path enshrouded in exotic vegetation, I emerged onto a sprawling white beach inexplicably adorned with enormous boulders. Of course, the volcanic activity is the explanation, but the first impression is almost mystical, as if some ancient god had deposited the stones on the beach as monuments to his power.

I was captivated by the unique beauty of the giant stones and swirling tidal pools and couldn’t help but feel a little humbled by the thousands of years of history represented in their formation. Several others admired the view from their yachts in the tranquil harbor.

After spending some time enjoying the beauty of The Baths, I decided to navigate the path to Devil’s Bay where another idyllic beach awaited. The path was quite an adventure, and I was glad I’d worn my water shoes. I climbed over and through boulders and waded through tidal pools. Platforms and stairs have been constructed along the way to help visitors navigate safely.

Arrows mark the route to Devil’s Bay, although I was so busy enjoying the beautiful scenery I ended up taking a few unintended detours. Not to worry, though, it only meant more exploring amongst the enormous boulders and sheltered pools.

I had read that these beaches get quite crowded. I was there during high season, and while they weren’t deserted hideaways, the beaches weren’t uncomfortably crowded either. There was plenty of space to relax on the warm sand, and I had a wonderful time snorkeling and exploring the tidal pools. The shade at Devil’s Bay beach was limited, so come prepared with sunscreen, a hat and any other sun protection you may need.

Also, gentlemen, be aware of where you keep your wallet. A man snorkeling near me surfaced with a wallet in his hand. It had an ID so, after calling out the owner’s name several times, the man was able to return it. Moments later the same snorkeler began surfacing with $20 bills that he also kindly returned!

Speaking of the water, it was absolutely perfect. Having lived in L.A. for several years and experienced some strong ocean currents, I was amazed at the tranquil coves I discovered on this island. The water was the ideal temperature and indescribably blue, and while I usually spend most of my time at beaches literally on the beach, here I found that I didn’t want to leave the heavenly waters.

After a truly wonderful day exploring these unique beaches, I hiked a more leisurely trail to catch a ride back to the ship, enjoying the scenic landscape of the island along the way.

As winter descends here at home, I’ll be thinking about Oceania Cruises’ guests celebrating their holiday with the sunny skies, golden sands and azure waters of the Caribbean. We hope you will share stories of your adventures here in the comments section, and we’d love to see your photos on our Facebook page.

On behalf of the entire Oceania Cruises family, warmest wishes for a joyous holiday season and many wonderful journeys in 2013!

‘TIS THE SEASON TO EXPLORE THE MALDIVES

As winter sets in, Oceania Cruises ships are making their way to warmer climates, and Riviera isn’t the only ship visiting breathtaking beaches. Today Nautica is in Malé, Maldives, en route to Cape Town on one of the more diverse itineraries offered, Lands of Grandeur. The voyage takes a full month to explore from Dubai to Cape Town and everywhere in between.

The first and most obvious thing to mention about the Maldives is the beaches. A renowned vacation paradise, the Maldives is a chain of coral islands located on top of a vast mountain range in the Indian Ocean. The weather is almost always perfect, the water is as pristine as any in the world and the beaches are stunning. There are a couple of “beach escape” shore excursions that will take you to nearby island paradises. These are perfect for anyone interested in snorkeling and swimming in perfectly crystal clear blue waters or lounging in a beach chair amidst the beautiful scenery.

The Maldives is mostly underwater so if you want to get a good look at the spectacular atolls, you’ll want to spend some time under the surface. You can do so without even getting wet if you explore in the comfort of the state-of-the-art submarine offered on the shore excursion Explore the Underwater World of the Maldives. You will descend 120 feet below sea level where you will enjoy thrilling, panoramic, up-close views of the colorful coral and exotic marine life.

If you are interested in a deeper look at the culture and the history of this island chain, there is a City of Malé Walking Tour that explores the capital and some of its cultural and historic landmarks, including the Grand Friday Mosque built by the Sultan Ibrahim Iskandhar in 1656.

Whatever your yen, there are plenty of options at this fabulous port. 

RELAXING IN BEAUTIFUL GUSTAVIA, ST. BARTS

After bidding adieu to Europe, Riviera crossed the Atlantic and arrived in Miami today, where she will begin her winter season exploring the idyllic beaches and swaying palms of the Caribbean. 

As Blogger-at-Large for Oceania Cruises, I find that when I travel to the Caribbean, I have to take it down a few notches. Shore excursions tend to be about relaxing on a beach or a sailboat, snorkeling or gazing at the beautiful scenery and less about touring ancient ruins and visiting world-class museums as I enjoy doing in Europe. Not that I am complaining! This is one of the great things about seeing the world with Oceania Cruises: every region of the world has new, different and equally wonderful experiences to offer.

A day in Gustavia, St. Barts, is the perfect example of the nice relaxed pace I enjoy when sailing the Caribbean. Though Gustavia is very popular for duty-free shopping and high-end designer fashion boutiques, mostly it is geared toward enjoying the weather, the beautiful scenery and the iridescent blue waters.

St. Barts was discovered by Columbus in 1493 and named after his brother Bartolomeo. However, it was not until 1763 that the French successfully settled on the island. Ultimately, St. Barts fell into the hands of the Swedes, and as a free port, it became important for trade and supply during the colonial wars in the 18th century. Unlike many of the surrounding islands, St. Barts is inhospitable to sugar farming, so it has served primarily as a center for trade.

Today it is an idyllic island resort, serving tourists from all over the world in search of warm weather and beautiful beaches.

Just a short walk from the harbor where the ship docked, I found Shell Beach, a remarkably uncrowded, tranquil cove with a wonderful little Brazilian café where I sat and enjoyed the views and the gorgeous day.

 

Like most Caribbean islands, the deep blue waters and the lush green foliage are stunning, but what I find especially captivating about Gustavia are the coral-colored roofs and multi-hued flowers. It is truly a colorful town and has one of the most picturesque harbors in the Caribbean.

On my leisurely stroll through town, I came across a couple of lovely little churches. The Church of Our Lady of the Assumption is a Catholic Church surrounded by a lovely courtyard. St. Bartholomew’s Anglican Church sits right off the harbor.

There are shore excursions that take visitors on tours of the island or on fabulous snorkeling adventures. I’ve also read about wonderful hiking in the area. But on this day, I chose to relax and enjoy this little town at a slow Caribbean pace. Regardless of what you choose to do when you visit Gustavia, I can promise that you’ll have no regrets!

HAVING IT ALL ON THE ISLAND OF RHODES

As Blogger-at-Large for Oceania Cruises, I often encounter some particularly pleasant “dilemmas” when traveling at sea. A perfect example is when I recently awakened to find myself at the island of Rhodes on a beautiful warm sunny day. My dilemma was this: should I spend my day on the gorgeous beach frolicking in the indescribably blue waters of the Mediterranean, or should I explore the beautifully preserved ancient city of Rhodes, once home to Colossus of Rhodes, one of the Seven Wonders of the World?

I know this is quite an enviable challenge to face. Rest assured that I found a solution – I did both!

Walking distance from the pier where the ship docks, I found Elli Beach, a welcoming beach with everything a traveler would need to enjoy an afternoon in the sun and the warm Mediterranean waters. There are hundreds of colorful umbrellas for the fair skinned or sun shy, rented sun decks, beachfront taverns and plenty of delightful little restaurants.

If you haven’t fallen blissfully asleep in the warm sun or aren’t hypnotized by the gorgeous blue waters lapping gently at the shore, you can entertain yourself with the many other more adventurous activities like water sports, diving or beach volley ball.

If you never make it off the beach, I seriously doubt you will live with any regret. That being said, I did not regret exploring the Grand Masters Palace in the old town of Rhodes.

But first, let me address the Colossus of Rhodes, because if you are anything like me, you may be wondering, if it is so colossal, where is it?! A towering monument to the Golden Age of this island, the colossus was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Only one of these wonders, the Great Pyramid of Giza, remains relatively intact today. It took 12 years to build the Colossus of Rhodes, which is thought to have been completed somewhere around 290 BC. In 226 BC the statue crumbled in an earthquake, and for centuries pieces of the statue laid in the harbor. In the 7th century, Arabs captured the island and took all of the pieces of the colossus to Syria and sold it as scrap metal.

As the colossus now exists only in legend, I took a peaceful walk through the beautiful gardens just outside the Grand Masters Palace and enjoyed some lovely views of this historic site that still stands today.

The Knights of Rhodes built the Grand Masters Palace in the 14the century. Heavily fortifying the city, the Knights were able to successfully fight off invaders for over two centuries until the Ottoman Empire captured Rhodes in 1522. Under the Ottomans the palace was used as a fortress.

In 1856 the castle was destroyed by an enormous ammunition explosion and laid in ruins until the Italian Occupation of Rhodes in 1912. Rebuilt in a medieval style, the palace became a holiday residence for King Victor Emmanuel III and later for Benito Mussolini.

In 1948, after World War II, Rhodes was transferred to the Kingdom of Greece, and the Greeks converted the palace to a museum. It is now part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the Medieval City of Rhodes.

What a lovely place for Nautica to visit on her final European port of call before sailing for Asia and Africa for the winter season. I can promise Nautica guests had no shortage of fascinating historic sites to explore and pleasant activities to enjoy during their stay. If the approach of winter has you eagerly planning a vacation for the summer of 2013, you should certainly consider an Oceania Cruises voyage that includes this lovely Greek island on the itinerary.

THE SOUTH PACIFIC: A PRETTY PICTURE

As your Blogger-at-Large, there is only one thing I enjoy more than traveling the world with Oceania Cruises, and that’s sitting down and getting to know fellow guests. Everyone has their own unique perspective on what makes a voyage with Oceania Cruises so appealing and also what makes each destination so unique. I recently had the privilege of spending some time chatting with Peter and Pauline Pretty, Bronze Oceania Club members who have found their home away from home aboard the ships of Oceania Cruises.

There are two kinds of travelers I come across on our cruises: “sightseers” and “doers.” Make no mistake that the Prettys are “doers.” They told me the best way to get to know the regions of the world is to step ashore with abandon – talk to the natives, sample the cuisine and embrace the customs. Recently, the Prettys were able to do just that on a South Pacific cruise, and Peter and Pauline were kind enough to share some of their photos.

In American Samoa, they traveled out into the landscape to experience the culture and witness one of the most esteemed ceremonies in Samoan culture, performed by an illustrious High Talking Chief at a traditional village. The journey involves a breathtaking drive west, during which guests delight in the island's natural beauty and historic landmarks. Highlights include the monolithic Fatu-ma-Futi, or Flowerpot Rock, that rises straight out of the ocean as if standing sentinel at the entrance to Pago Pago Bay. Farther west, the Leone Mission Monument and several churches mark the contribution of Reverend John Williams, who landed in the area in 1832 and began spreading Christianity.

Despite readily embracing such non-native doctrines, Samoans still cherish traditional ways, especially with regard to ceremonies and social occasions. The High Talking Chief, or "tulafale," is the village spokesman, a grand orator highly skilled at holding the audience's attention through his extraordinary use of language and ancient proverbs. Dressed in traditional garb, the High Talking Chief launches into an animated and authentic performance of an ancient Samoan ceremony used to welcome visiting VIPs. After the ceremony, which takes place in an open-sided thatched "fale" building, guests are treated to a traditional dance performance.

In Suva, Fiji, the Prettys explored the evolution of Fiji's fascinating cultural history and art during a half-day tour that included a spectacular performance by the Fijian Firewalkers. Greeted by the reverberating sound of a hollow drum beaten by a Fijian warrior, the blowing of a conch shell and the welcoming song of the villagers, guests were escorted to the  amphitheater to witness a performance by Fijian Firewalkers and the enthralling group from the Arts Village of Fiji. As elders chant, young men remove the burning logs from a smoking pit to reveal the white-hot stones signaling the beginning of this ancient ceremony. The group from the Arts Village of Fiji entertains with traditional dancing and by re-enacting their legends and history amidst this idyllic setting.

Cultural immersion isn’t the only way to feel a connection the South Pacific. Sometimes the flora and fauna speak just as loudly. In Lautoka, Fiji, the Prettys discovered the beautiful gardens and historic artifacts of the South Seas during a delightful tour. At picturesque Burness House, hosts Don and Aileen Burness greet guests and provide an escorted walking tour through their landscaped gardens filled with fruit and flowering trees, arthurium lilies and lovely orchids. An extraordinary collection of Fijian artifacts is also on display.

Moorea is always a guest favorite thanks to its tranquil turquoise lagoon and jagged emerald-colored volcanic peaks that rise up into the bright South Pacific skies. Moorea exemplifies the image that most people have of the South Pacific. Remarkably, a trip to the island doesn’t disappoint as it is every bit as dramatic and captivating as it appears in photographs.

While the South Pacific is spectacular, it was always comforting to return to their floating home courtesy of Oceania Cruises. The cuisine is always a big hit and this cruise was no exception. Pauline spent some time with Executive Chef Renald Macouin, who shared a few secrets on how to prepare meals à la minute for a ship full of guests.

While meals are a cherished event each day, the classic afternoon tea was one of Pauline’s favorite indulgences. The assortment of finger sandwiches, scones and clotted cream and, of course, aromatic and exotic tea selections, were something to look forward to each afternoon upon returning from a day ashore.

The specialty restaurants, none of which carry an additional surcharge, were something the Prettys looked forward to each time they held a reservation. Dinner with Regatta’s General Manager Raffaele Cinque was a treat, as was the cart of flavored olive oils brought tableside from which guests could choose their favorite.

While many guests choose to cruise and then return home, the Prettys are big believers in extending their vacation with a pre- or post-cruise hotel stay. Papeete, Tahiti is the hub of the South Pacific but easily retains its reputation as a paradise. There are few hotel experiences that compare to staying in a bungalow suspended over the waters of the lagoon, the moon shimmering over the silver ripples, the stars competing for attention overhead and the tall peaks towering above. Imagine waking in the morning and stepping down to dangle your feet in the waters of a crystal clear lagoon, brightly colored tropical fish darting beneath the pilings as palms rustle just behind you. The Prettys know that feeling well and are convinced that the hotel stay in Papeete was time well spent. It was more than just a chance to recharge their batteries; it was invigorating as well.

Remember, the South Pacific is only offered a few times a year by Oceania Cruises. A remarkable voyage from Valparaiso to Papeete is still available on December 27, 2012, as are two roundtrip cruises from Papeete on January 16 and January 27, 2013. Those who wish to wander farther afield, as the Prettys did, will be drawn to the February 7, 2013, cruise from Papeete to Auckland, especially considering this sailing offers two new Culinary Discovery Tours. Accompany chefs from the Bon Appétit Culinary Center to experience traditional Maori cuisine in Rotorua or regional dishes and wines in Kerikeri, just inland from the Bay of Islands.

Our thanks to the Prettys for sharing their remarkable South Pacific adventure with us. If you have stories of your South Pacific voyage with Oceania Cruises, feel free to share them here in the comments section of the blog.

A TRANQUIL AFTERNOON IN CHARMING PROVENCE

Haystacks in Provence by Van Gogh

If you have ever had the great fortune to find yourself in the countryside of Provence, you may have felt, as I did even upon my first visit, that there is something very familiar about it. This is undoubtedly because history’s greatest artists have painted these landscapes for centuries, and I have admired their work in countless books and museums. Traveling the winding roads

Mont Sainte-Victoire by Cézanne

through the hills of Provence, it is immediately apparent why masters such as Cézanne, Van Gogh, Renoir and Matisse found such inspiration here.

As Blogger-at-Large, I recently had the opportunity to visit Provence, a popular stop for the ships of Oceania Cruises thanks to the charms of the port of Marseille and numerous other towns throughout the region. On this trip, I decided to join the shore excursion called Charming Castellet. I will try to minimize my use of the word “charming” here, but let’s just say the excursion was aptly named.

It was about an hour and a half by motorcoach from the port of Marseille to Castellet, and the drive through Provence was gorgeous. Along the way we passed vineyards, olive groves and quaint towns and farms.

When we arrived at the base of the town, the views were stunning. As we began our walk up the road into the village, I knew I had picked the right excursion to try out my new camera. In the French countryside, I’m not sure it’s even possible to take a bad picture.

According to records, Castellet has been in existence since at least 1030. Originally a walled town, some ancient ramparts remain, leading through old gateways to narrow cobblestone streets.

Beautifully restored, brightly colored old houses line the streets and are accented with gorgeous flowers, vines and bright green foliage. It was everything that I had imagined a French country village would look like.

Castellet is a popular tourist town, and delightful little shops can be found around every turn. Art galleries showcase local artists, and artisan workshops sell local pottery, ceramics, candles and leather crafts. Gift shops offer all the icons of Provence – lavender, herbes de Provence, olive oil, pastries – so I purchased all of my gifts for family and friends here! There are also plenty of adorable cafés and restaurants in which to relax and enjoy a cup of coffee or a glass of wine.

As we meandered the streets, every corner unveiled another spectacular view of Provence. 

As we approached the top of the hill on which Castellet is perched, we came upon the one church in Castellet and took a look inside. 

Near the church stood the Castellet castle built 2,500 years ago. The views from its position atop the hill made this castle ideally suited to keep a close watch on transportation routes thousands of years ago. Today the castle houses government offices, and in an era in which invasion is no longer a constant threat, the location now provides the perfect opportunity to simply relax and enjoy the scenery. 

I have seen sprawling ancient cities, grand historic churches and renowned museums on my European travels, and these are certainly experiences not to be missed. But there is another European experience that is equally enjoyable – leisurely exploring the charms of the little towns that dot the countryside, chatting with the locals, sampling their wares and savoring the extraordinary views under the warm summer sun.  

Life tends to move at a hectic pace, and even when on vacation, we sometimes forget to slow down. So if your travels with Oceania Cruises offer the chance to meander the streets of one of the many quaint villages to be found along the shores and throughout the hillsides of Europe, I would encourage you to take that opportunity. I imagine you will be smitten as I was with the charms of Castellet. 

View of La Sayne by Renoire

 

JAMES BEARD AWARD-WININING CHEF BARBARA LYNCH JOINS CHEF KELLY ON RIVIERA

As summer in the Mediterranean turns to fall, we celebrate the produce in local markets by creating comforting autumn dishes. Who better to share the season with than one of Boston’s (and the country’s!) leading chefs and restaurateurs, Barbara Lynch? Chef Lynch is the only female chef in the United States to hold the distinguished title of Grand Chef Relais and Chateaux. In 1998 she opened No. 9 Park in Boston’s Beacon Hill and from there has gone on to create a culinary dynasty, including six restaurants plus ventures in catering, sustainable produce, demonstration kitchens and artisanal butchery. I invited Chef Lynch on Riviera with the hope of enticing her back to host a culinary tour in the fall of 2013.

Truth be known, I have been a fan Chef Lynch since I dined at No. 9 Park in December of 2005. The snow was falling on the Square, the Scotch was single malt and the food and wine pairing was as close to perfection as it gets. In 2008 I was fortunate enough to visit No. 9 Park and see how the back-of-the-house operation works – including an opportunity to make a late night BLT for a tall blonde star making a movie in Boston with Tom Cruise. Since then I have gotten to know Chef Lynch through our mutual friend and Bon Appétit Culinary Center chef instructor, Annie Copps. Chef Lynch and Chef Copps worked on the line together for Todd English in the 1990s.

Chef Lynch’s cookbook, Stir, combines “practical simplicity with charming sophistication” for the home cook. Known for her silky pastas, my favorite is her gnocchi, which she demonstrated in the Bon Appétit Culinary Center for our guests and in the galley for our chefs!

During the Accent on Italy cruise, we took five of our popular Culinary Discovery Tours – the favorite was a trip to the market in Nice followed by lunch at the wonderful Chateau Eza. Leaving from Monte Carlo, we traveled the stunning road along the Cote d’Azur to Nice. The market was brimming with flowers, fresh produce, herbs and cheeses. 

After a few hours shopping in the market and eating socca (a chickpea flour pancake and a typical mid-morning snack of Nice), we climbed the winding stairs to Eze. This charming village is home to Chateau Eza, one of the most famous restaurants in France, if not the world. I designed this Culinary Discovery Tour because I wanted to share this very special venue with our foodie guests. We have booked a table for 24 about 16 times this season, and many of our guests have told me it was the highlight of their vacation!

Our first course was a quail egg on a poached carrot round with a fresh seasonal root vegetable sauce.

The second course was a chickpea flour panisse in a reduced fresh tomato sauce with charred fresh lavender. 

Course three was braised pork belly with bacon foam followed by course four, a tagine of guinea hen and North African vegetables.

For dessert we had white peaches poached in Sauternes wine and topped with crème fraîche.

The meal was served with wines from Provence, which we have been enjoying all summer. This has been one of our most popular Culinary Discovery Tours and is definitely on the agenda for 2013. Chef Lynch was especially delighted because she had attempted to dine here in 2010 and was not able to get a table. Imagine my delight at being able to impress the most impressive chef I know!

Chef Lynch was able to spend time with Chef Copps and her students in the Bon Appétit Culinary Center before arriving in Amalfi.

The class menu included ricotta-stuffed zucchini blossoms and fresh pasta. Chef Lynch contributed her own fresh pasta recipe for capunti, a southern Italian specialty she learned when she studied in Italy. 

Another highlight of the cruise was the Culinary Discovery Tour in Livorno. Guests enjoyed boarding a small boat and winding through the canals of Livorno, which is a lot like Venice. This is the port from which Catherine de Medici left to marry Henry, a Frenchman, bringing with her an entourage of cooks, butchers, bakers and pastry chefs as well as the famous fork, which she introduced to the reticent French.

After the canal tour, we visited the open market in Livorno where we sampled the cinque e cinque, a focaccia and chickpea sandwich referred to as “five and five,” and strolled through the aisles of fresh meats, cheeses, produce and pastas. I always look forward to a stop at a local cheese shop where the owner ages his own Parmigiano-Reggiano. He gives us luscious samples of local Tuscan charcuterie like salumi and lardo, drizzled with olive oil from his backyard trees, and a selection of heady sangiovese wines to complement our morning snack.

Chef Lynch’s official host was our own Annie Copps, who shares her contagious passion for food, wine and travel with our guests, whether it is in class, on a Culinary Discovery Tour or as she wanders about the ship. On this tour she was in her element among the fabulous wine and food that she shared with her students.

I believe when I cease to learn, I cease to live, and one of the best things about my fabulous job is that I continue to learn from our guest chefs and sommeliers. This cruise was no exception! We are all hopeful that Chef Lynch will join us again in 2013 and design a signature tour for foodies and her many fans around the world!

A DAY IN SEVILLE: THE AMAZING ALCÁZAR AND THE PATRON SAINT OF SAILORS

Nautica guests called on the beautiful city of Seville last week. As Blogger-at-Large for Oceania Cruises, I wanted to share some experiences from my recent shore excursion, Heritage of Seville.  

We docked in Cádiz on a bright, sunny morning, and the trip through the scenic Spanish countryside to Seville was a treat on its own. We drove through vineyards, olive and orange groves and farms where Spain’s bulls and horses are bred.

As we arrived in the city, we were greeted by altogether different but equally impressive scenery. Lavish mansions, ornate churches and elaborate government buildings lined the streets. Lush green palms and flowering bushes seemed to sprout from the sidewalks. I was instantly charmed.

Our first stop was the stunning Palace of San Telmo, currently the seat of the presidency of the Andalusian Autonomous Government. Constructed in 1682 as a school for orphaned children of sailors, it is a gorgeous example of Sevillian Baroque architecture.

One of the more captivating aspects of the building is the Churrigueresque entrance, which was completed in 1754. This Spanish Baroque architectural style features extremely elaborate sculptural ornamentation. The 12 sculptures on each side of the balcony represent the nautical arts and sciences, and the figure at the top is Saint Telmo, patron saint of sailors – an appropriate saint to pay homage to while on a cruise!

As we continued through the city, we had the chance to see the lovely Hotel Alfonso XIII. It was completed in 1928 for the Ibero-American Exposition of 1929, a world’s fair held in Seville.

Finally we reached the destination I had been most eagerly anticipating: the Alcázar. The oldest royal palace still in use in Europe, the Alcázar of Seville is an ornate Moorish citadel that has been the residence of Spanish royalty since the Middle Ages. The outer walls and portions of the interior are part of the original Moorish fortress.

 

The stunning Hall of the Ambassadors, one of the main rooms used for public events and affairs of state, is one of the areas remaining from the original palace, so the walls date from the 11th century. This is the room where Ferdinand and Isabella welcomed Columbus upon his return from his first voyage to the New World.

I was mesmerized by the intricately detailed mosaics and the interesting mix of Moorish and European styles throughout the palace.

The Courtyard of the Dolls is the focal point of the private section of the palace, and the patio leads to bedrooms and private halls. The hall is surrounded by a gallery with marble columns and Arab-influenced lobed arches.

The gardens surrounding the Alcázar are just as enthralling as the palace buildings. Our guide clearly recognized that this was the perfect place to enjoy a beautiful day, and she gave us some free time to stroll through the gardens at our leisure.

From the Courtyard of Flags at the Alcázar, there is a perfect view of the Giralda, a minaret that was converted into a bell tower for Seville Cathedral, the next stop on our itinerary. Completed in 1198, the tower is over 300 feet high and was one of the most important symbols of the medieval city.

 

The largest Gothic cathedral and third largest church in the world, Seville Cathedral was completed in the early 16th century. Along with the Alcázar, the cathedral is a registered UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it is the burial site of Christopher Columbus. The astonishingly large building was constructed on the former site of a grand mosque, parts of which were preserved, including the Giralda and the Moorish entrance. Both the size and the stonework are truly breathtaking.

At the end of the excursion, we were given time to explore on our own, and after all the walking around, I was ready for some jamón Ibérico! I found a delightful little café and enjoyed the afternoon sun and a taste of Spain. As I sat completely sated after an incredible day of sightseeing and a delicious meal, I couldn’t help but think that Seville is my newest favorite place in the world.

ICONS OF VENICE

As is so often the case in history, beautiful things are born of desperate times. Venice is one of those undeniably beautiful things. Centuries ago, when Italy was regularly invaded from the north, northern Italian refugees went in search of a safer home. They found that home on a group of tiny islands in the Venetian Lagoon. Though there is some evidence that these islands may have been occupied first by fishermen, the founding of Venice is identified with the dedication of the first church, San Giacomo, on the islet of Rialto in 421 AD.

As Blogger-at-Large for Oceania Cruises, I recently had the great pleasure of returning to this amazing city where Riviera began her maiden voyage. On this trip, I used my time to get more familiar with the story of Venice through its icons: bridges, churches, gondolas, markets and even the masks.

One of my favorite parts of visiting Venice is the sail in. The view from the ship is extraordinary, and I tell anyone who will listen that they must add this experience to their bucket list. The icons of Venice beckoned the minute we hit the Grand Canal, starting with the gray dome of the Basilica of St. Mary of Health, or Salute. Referred to as a “plague church,” the basilica was constructed beginning in 1631, a year after an unusually devastating outbreak of the plague, as an offering to the Virgin Mary who was thought to be a protector of Venice.

 

Sailing by St. Mark’s Square, or the Piazza, as the locals call it, we were greeted by the city’s most famous icons, if there is such a category. Like all of Venice, the Piazza is one of the few great urban spaces in Europe where human voices prevail over motorized vehicles.

St. Mark’s Campanile is the bell tower of St. Mark’s Basilica and stands as a sentry over the entire city. Originally constructed in the 9th century as a watchtower and lighthouse, it stood adamantly over the city for centuries despite damage caused by numerous fires. But on July 14, 1902, at 9:45 am, the campanile collapsed. That same night, funds for reconstruction were allotted, and on April 25, 1912, exactly 1000 years after the foundations of the original building had allegedly been laid, the new campanile was inaugurated.

After disembarking the ship at the far end of the Grand Canal, I began a lovely walk through the canals and walkways. As I wandered through the narrow streets, I regularly came upon open piazzas, each with its own church or museum and charming cafés.

San Simeon Piccolo, consecrated in 1738, is one of the last churches to have been built in Venice. Just to give you an idea of how high the standards of beauty are in this city, it has been much maligned over the years. Even Napoleon weighed in, saying, “I have seen churches without domes before, but I’ve never, until now, seen a dome without a church.” One of the four columns was replaced following enemy bombing of Venice during World War I.

As I made my way through the city, I came across markets where one could buy fresh pasta, fish, spices, fruits and vegetables or any other number of delightful knick-knacks. The markets were a great way to get a feel for the character of this city and its people.

Of course, no market would be complete without a generous selection of Venetian masks. No one knows exactly when or why people started wearing masks in Venice, but there are laws dating back to the 13th century that limit their use. Some have suggested that covering one’s face in public was the Venetian response to an incredibly rigid class structure. Now an important part of the Carnivale that draws 3 million visitors every year, they are a colorful addition to the Venetian experience.

Food is an important part of Italian culture, and quaint restaurants and cafés can be found just about everywhere. At this delightful little restaurant, I was serenaded on the patio while I ate and drank and enjoyed the beautiful day.

Not surprisingly, the City of Canals is also known as the City of Bridges. While many of Venice's more than 400 bridges are simple, practical constructions, each nonetheless adds character to the city. The views from every bridge I crossed were captivating, and yes I was that tourist who clogged up traffic as I tried to take photos.

There are several iconic bridges, but none more so than the Rialto Bridge, where people lined the walkways to get a peek from the top. Completed in 1591, it is the oldest of the four bridges spanning the Grand Canal.

Of course, nothing is more emblematic of Venice than gondolas and gondoliers. For centuries they were the primary means of transportation in the city but now serve primarily to carry tourists through the canals. Down from an estimated 10,000 gondolas in the 18th century, today there are just over 400 in active service.

The gondoliers are easy to spot in their traditional red and blue striped shirts. The profession of gondolier is controlled by a guild that issues a limited number of licenses. Gondoliers are put through rigorous training, apprenticeships and a major exam that covers Venetian history and landmarks, foreign language skills and practical skills in handling a gondola.

My exploration of Venice ended at St. Mark’s Square, home to the Doge’s Palace and St. Mark’s Basilica. 

It is remarkable that what started as a desperate escape from conquering invaders could have resulted in such grandeur. But certainly not overnight. St Mark’s Basilica was first built in 828 and was destroyed several times, including being burned to the ground in a rebellion in 976. The basic structure of the current iteration was consecrated in 1094. Great wealth and worldly influences contributed to its adornment over the years.

The Doge’s Palace was the center of all civic activity in Venice, which accounts for its size. Ironically, like many famous icons of this city surrounded by water, the palace has been destroyed by fires several times over the centuries. Despite numerous repairs and rebuilds, it has remained largely faithful to the Gothic style first used in the reconstruction in the 1300s.

Despite great hardships, invasions, wars, rebellions, plagues and many fires, these iconic buildings now stand as spectacular symbols of Venetian wealth and the city’s position as a major maritime power and an important center of commerce and art during the Middle Ages and Renaissance.

In good times and in bad, Venice is testimony to the triumph of the human spirit, and as I wandered the streets, I definitely got a sense of what Venice must have been like in its heyday. Everything about the city feels like a historical monument to extraordinary people in extraordinary times. I hope all of our readers have the opportunity to experience this remarkable city on an Oceania Cruises voyage.

A VISIT TO MYSTICAL MONT SAINT-MICHEL

According to legend, Archangel Michael appeared to St. Aubert in 708 A.D. and asked him to build a monastery atop the rocky islet of what is now called Mont Saint-Michel. When Aubert repeatedly ignored his instructions, a frustrated Michael finally burned a hole in Aubert’s skull with his finger. And thus the phrase, “You don’t have to ask me twice,” was born.

As Blogger-at-Large for Oceania Cruises, I took a fantastic shore excursion, Mystical Mont Saint-Michel, to this beautiful monastery built in the 8th century on an island just off the shore of France. Many guests onboard Marina enjoyed this excursion last week, and many more onboard Nautica will have the opportunity when she calls on Saint-Malo next week.

Saint-Malo is a lovely walled town with a fascinating history. I hope to be able to return and spend more time in Saint-Malo itself, especially because I heard rumors of restaurants famous for fresh seafood, crepes and other French specialties!

But as a first time visitor to this area, I knew I would be making the short trip to Mont Saint-Michel, “a sublime thing, a marvelous pyramid,” as it was aptly described by Victor Hugo. I had dreamed of visiting this mystical place since I first learned of it in French class in high school. Like so many others, I was moved by the spectacular silhouette of this monastery perched in solitude on a rocky mount.

Because the entire area is surrounded by vast, low-lying marshland, the iconic view of Mont Saint-Michel rising dramatically from the mist is visible from miles away. My first glimpse of the monastery was as impressive as I had imagined it would be. As we approached, the haze enveloping the abbey lifted, and the edifice grew even more imposing and inspiring as it sparkled in the bright summer sun. 

Mont Saint-Michel is almost as famous for its tides as its monastery. The tides here are the highest in Europe. They vary greatly – roughly 46 feet between high and low tide – and can change very quickly. 

As this has always been an important pilgrimage site, a causeway was built to allow pilgrims easier access to the island. This dramatically altered the flow of water in the area and led to the silting of the bay. As a result, Mont Saint-Michel is no longer surrounded by water.

A dam project, scheduled to be completed in 2015, will clear out the accumulated silt and allow tidal waters to once again flow freely around this tiny island. Visitors will no longer park at the foot of the island, so the hoards of cars and buses will not sully the view of the revered mount. Instead a separate parking lot will be built, and visitors will be shuttled to the island over a bridge.

The salt meadows surrounding the area create the ideal environment for grazing sheep – 30,000 to be exact! Salt meadow lamb is a prized delicacy served in the local restaurants, as the lambs’ high salt intake creates an especially tender and flavorful meat. 

After navigating the sheep, we arrived at the base of Mont Saint-Michel, following in the footsteps of the millions that have flocked to this place of pilgrimage over the centuries. The site is so revered that many of the faithful settled at the foot of the mountain. Half-timbered houses were constructed, and eventually a village grew up below the abbey. Today the village is home to adorable little cafés, restaurants and souvenir shops. 

A narrow cobblestone street winds through the village and up the incline to the abbey. Our guide for the day was Gil, an expert host with an encyclopedic knowledge of the region, and as we climbed, he did a wonderful job of bringing the abbey to life with stories of its fascinating history.

Its location along the English Channel meant that Mont Saint-Michel held not only religious significance but also strategic significance to the various powers that ruled the region over the centuries. After the Norman conquest in the 11th century, the larger Romanesque church of the abbey was constructed. Following a devastating fire in the 13th century, the abbey underwent repairs, and a Gothic-style refectory and cloisters were added.

The diverse architectural styles along with the natural rock are what make the abbey so extraordinary, both visually and historically. Here Gil points out one of the original walls of the monastery.

During the French Revolution, monasticism was abolished. The abbey was closed and converted into a prison to hold clerical opponents and other high-profile political prisoners. At this time a giant wheel was constructed, and prisoners were forced to turn the wheel to operate an enormous pulley that lifted loads of stone and supplies up the mountain.

Gargoyles adorn most of the walls and were added to divert water from the building, which seems like a far more visually interesting solution than the current gutters that frame the eaves of my house.

Even with the throngs of tourists that visit Mont Saint-Michel each day, the abbey inspires a sense of peace. Every aspect of the architecture – the vaults, the arches, the famous spire – was deliberately designed to turn your gaze upward toward the heavens. And when you reach the abbey’s highest point and direct your gaze downward to the sprawling countryside below, the views are equally breathtaking.

After visiting this remarkable place, I found myself incredibly grateful that St. Aubert finally got the hint! As reluctant as I was to leave, the tide was coming in, as if to say that my home on the sea was beckoning. I returned to the ship with memories of Mont Saint-Michel that I will cherish forever.

 

A THOROUGHLY MODERN EXPERIENCE IN VALENCIA

As Blogger-at-Large for Oceania Cruises, I recently had the pleasure of sailing to Valencia onboard Riviera. Here I spent a wonderful day exploring the Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias, or City of Arts and Sciences, one of the most famous modern tourist destinations in Spain. The structures here, designed by Santiago Calatrava and Félix Candela, were as fascinating as the events happening inside of them. Built as an entertainment-based cultural and architectural hub of the city, the complex offered a blogger with a camera the chance to completely lose herself. It truly was photogenic from every angle.

The Hemisfèric is an IMAX theater designed to resemble an eye. The centerpiece of the complex, it was the first building to be completed in 1998. The exterior of the building, or the eyelid, actually opens to access the water and reveal the dome, or the pupil of the eye, which is the theater. Surrounded by water, the bottom of the pool is glass, creating a reflective illusion that the eye is whole. 

El Museu de les Ciències Príncipe Felipe was built to resemble the skeleton of whale. This interactive museum aims to entertain visitors while educating them about science, the environment and technology. It opened in 2000 and quickly became one of the most visited attractions in Spain, in large part because it is perfect for kids of all ages.

Looking like something out of a Star Trek battle, Palau de les Arts Reina Sofia is the tallest opera house in the world. The company attracts major names from the world of opera, including Plácido Domingo, who performs there regularly. There are four separate performance halls, and performances are usually held on Saturdays and Sundays.

L’Agora is a striking multi-purpose event space that can seat as many as 6,000 people. Officially inaugurated in 2009, it was opened to host the Valencia Open 500 Tennis Tournament. When completed, the fixed roof will be covered with glass panels, and the lower section will be covered with opaque panels of Valencian mosaics. 

En route to the oceanographic museum, I meandered through L’Umbracle, a gorgeous landscaped walk with native and tropical flora that change according to the seasons. The garden is surrounded by 99 palm trees, 78 small palm trees, 62 bitter orange trees, 42 varieties of shrubs native to Valencia, 16 beauty of the night plants, 450 climbing plants, including honeysuckle and hanging bougainvillea, 5,500 carpet plants and 100 aromatic plants, such as rosemary and lavender. And I thought weeding my flowerbed was backbreaking work!

Built on 17,500 square meters, L’Umbracle allows visitors to admire the views of all the buildings, lakes, walkways, and landscaped areas of the whole complex. Much of the garden is canopied by the 55 fixed arches and 54 floating arches that stand a little over 59 feet high. In contrast to the natural surroundings is an exhibition of contemporary sculptures by internationally known artists including Yoko Ono. 

After L’Umbracle, the rest of my day was spent at the truly impressive L'Oceanogràfic, Europe’s largest aquarium. Containing re-creations of all of the world’s primary marine habitats, each building is identified by its ecosystem: the Mediterranean, Wetlands, Temperate and Tropical Seas, Oceans, the Antarctic, the Arctic, Islands, and the Red Sea, plus the added bonus of the Dolphinarium. 

The aquarium is enormous, and after a leisurely trip through all of the ecosystems, I had experienced over 45,000 examples of 500 different species of marine life. But what was even more impressive was how the aquarium was designed to give visitors a truly unique understanding of the different species through the architecture and layout of the buildings, the lack of visual barriers, the superb educational components, the huge aquarium tanks and the amazing underground tunnels, the longest of which spanned more than 70 yards. I felt as if I had somehow explored the oceans and seas of the entire world in a single afternoon. 

Walking with sharks.

Walking underneath sharks.

 

Mola mola: A face only a mother could love.

Weird scary shark (scientific name: angel shark)

 

Seals at play.

Seal being cute.

 

For some reason I started humming The Little Mermaid soundtrack...

The starfish section is waiting for its cue.

 

 

The rhythm section.

Jellyfish the way I like them... behind glass.

 

I took a dozen photos of this beautiful bird. Not everyone can pull off red and black.

    I am pretty sure this eel was flirting with me.

 

“Aquarium” seems a woefully inadequate word to describe this amazing museum, and I was so engrossed I failed to realize that the time for Riviera’s departure was imminent. Luckily, the berth was immediately adjacent to the city, so I needed little time to return to the ship and was able to savor every last moment in this fascinating port of call.

Riveria will return to Valencia just a few days from now, and I wish I were returning with her! On this trip, I was so intrigued by the City of Arts and Sciences that I did not get to visit the famous Central Market and the Plaza de la Reina with its renowned cathedral. Hopefully I’ll have the chance to return and explore the other side of Valencia, the historic city center that will offer the perfect contrast to my thoroughly modern and thoroughly enjoyable experience at Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias.

A TRIP BACK IN TIME IN TALLINN

On Marina’s recent stop in Estonia, guests visiting the Old Town at the heart of Tallinn were greeted appropriately by this knight in (not so) shining armor. On the UNESCO World Heritage list, Tallinn is considered one of the best-preserved medieval town centers in Europe. With cobblestone streets and beautifully preserved buildings dating from the 11th century and earlier, it is easy to be transported to a different time.

Many of the state buildings, churches and original residences date from the medieval period and have been preserved in their basic original form. The cobbled square has been at the heart of Tallinn life since the 11th century and is dominated by one of the most famous symbols of Tallinn, the Gothic town hall, dating from the early 14th century. The town hall has been meticulously preserved down to the ornate dragon rainspouts. 

A particularly delightful aspect of the Old Town is the little shops and open-air markets where visitors can buy local handmade crafts like these hand-knitted sweaters and pullovers with traditional Estonian folk patterns and these souvenir bells with hand-painted scenes of Tallinn.

One of the more popular attractions in Old Town is the 19th century Russian Orthodox cathedral, Alexander Nevsky Cathedral. Slightly out of place in this medieval city, it has been viewed by locals as a symbol of Estonia’s history of oppression and was nearly torn down in 1924 during a brief period of independence. After neglect during Soviet rule, the Cathedral was restored to its former beauty and now this classic onion-domed cathedral serves as one of Tallinn’s more famous tourist icons.

To get above the scene, guests visited Toompea Castle atop Toompea Hill. The original wood structure was built in the 9th century, and the stone structure was added in the Middle Ages. Substantially reconstructed over the years, it still retains its original shape and currently is home to the Estonian Parliament. Near the castle, there were archery pits set up for visitors to take target practice, offering insight into the peaceful and relaxed atmosphere of this region, for how often does one find weapons available for public use in close proximity to a government building?

The views from Toompea Hill of the Old Town and its beautiful colorful buildings with red roofs were gorgeous on an equally gorgeous day.

Guests also visited the oldest church in Tallinn and mainland Estonia, Toomkirk, also called St. Mary’s Cathedral. Originally a Catholic cathedral, it became Lutheran in the 1500s and now belongs to the Estonian Evangelical Lutheran Church. Established in the 13th century by the Danes, the Baroque dome was not added until the 18th century. Over a hundred medieval coats of arms line the interior walls of the church.

No trip back to medieval times would be complete without fire breathing and a meal inspired by ancient history. At Old Hansa Restaurant, guests are treated to a medieval-themed experience with servers in medieval dress and music and entertainment from centuries ago. The food was simple and delicious: fresh baked bread, Hansa House smoked herring, juniper cheese spread and dark honey beer in a big ceramic tankard (what Old Hansa calls women’s size!).

Tallinn was a lovely escape into the past, made all the more wonderful when Marina guests returned to their thoroughly modern, immensely comfortable home on the sea.

 

Photos by Vanessa Cordo

AN EVENING FIT FOR ROYALTY AT THE WINTER PALACE

During a recent stop in St. Petersburg, guests onboard Marina were treated to a unique experience on an excursion called Musical Evening at the Hermitage. One of the oldest and largest museums in the world, the State Hermitage Museum sees approximately 2.5 million visitors a year. That is an average of about 8,000 visitors a day! So you can imagine how decadent it must have felt to be the only visitors in the building on this exclusive shore excursion.

The spectacular Winter Palace that houses the Hermitage was made all the more grand by the absence of the usual crowds. Constructed on a monumental scale, it was intended to embody the power of Imperial Russia, which encompassed almost one-sixth of the earth’s landmass and over 125 million subjects at the time the palace was built in the early 18th century. The clock tower bells that chime on the hour and half hour greeted the group for what was to be an extraordinary evening.

The private tour began at The Main Staircase of the Winter Palace (also known as the Jordan Staircase) where the world’s dignitaries were greeted for state receptions and functions over a century ago. Restored according to the original designs after a devastating fire in 1837, the staircase is one of the only areas of the palace that has retained the original 18th-century style. The painted ceiling depicts the Gods of Olympus, and alabaster statues welcomed the evening’s visitors.

After passing through The Memorial Hall of Peter the Great, the tour made its way to The Armorial Hall, once used for official ceremonies. With huge gilded columns, bronze chandeliers and stucco coats of armor framing the cavernous room, the effect was breathtaking.

Emperor Alexander I created The War Gallery of 1812 to honor the generals who defeated Napoleon in the Patriotic War of 1812. When these portraits were hung, every citizen in Russia knew the names of these generals, 17th-century celebrities who fought valiantly in the war.

The St. George Hall, or the Large Throne Room, is one of the largest rooms in the Winter Palace and home to the throne of the Emperor. Regarded as the throne of Russia, the velvet throne is emblazoned with the imperial coat of arms and the crowned double-headed eagle. The scene of  many of the most 
formal ceremonies of the imperial court, it was most notably the location of the meeting of the First State Duma, which marked the first time ordinary citizens were allowed into the palace in substantial numbers.

After a quick peek at the Hanging Garden through the windows, guests entered The Pavilion Hall with its 28 exquisite crystal and gold chandeliers and the visitor favorite, Peacock Clock.

Next stop was The Rembrandt Room with 23 works by the famous Dutch master, including some of his more famous masterpieces: The Return of the Prodigal Son, Portrait of an Old Jew and Danaë.

Portrait of an Old Jew

Return of the Prodigal Son

 

Danaë

 

A particularly exciting moment of the tour was The Leonardo Room where guests were able to view two highlights of the museum’s collection. Of the few oil paintings by Leonardo da Vinci in the world, two can be seen at the Hermitage: Benois Madonna and The Litta Madonna.

Benois Madonna

The Litta Madonna

The group was then momentarily transported to Rome upon entering The Raphael Loggias, a meticulous reproduction of the famous 16th-entury gallery in the Vatican Palace. Under his supervision, Raphael’s pupils painted the walls and vaults according to his sketches.

One of the museum’s masterpieces and the only work by Michelangelo in the Hermitage is the sculpture Crouching Boy in The Italian Cabinet. Unfinished, it is thought to have originally been designed for a chapel in Florence.

After taking in the art of many of the great Flemish and Dutch masters, guests entered The Small Italian Skylight Hall, one of three top-lit halls, to enjoy Italian art of the 16th and 17th centuries, including The Lute Player by Caravaggio and works by Tintoretto.

After the private tour of some of the highlights of this remarkable museum, everyone was able to take a seat and soak in the atmosphere of the evening with a concert performed by the State Symphony Orchestra of St. Petersburg in the largest of the three skylight halls, The Large Italian Skylight Hall. Surrounded by magnificent works of art by 17th- and 18th-century Italian artists, the orchestra brought the museum alive with works by Mozart, Faure and Tchaikovsky.

 

As if that weren’t enough for one evening, the tour ended in The Gallery of the History of Ancient Painting where guests sipped champagne and witnessed Cupid bringing his love back to life with a kiss in Canova’s sculpture Cupid and Psyche.

Three Graces by Finelli bid the group a fond farewell as they left the museum. Although it was 10 p.m., it was barely dark outside. Guests were able to snap some final photos of the empty Palace Square and The Alexander Column, named after Emperor Alexander I and erected as a monument to Russia’s victory in the war with Napoleon’s France.

The private event at the Hermitage was remarkable, and everyone left with treasured memories of a truly one-of-a-kind experience.

A special thank you goes out to Vanessa Cordo of Oceania Cruises for sharing these photos and video of the Musical Evening at the Hermitage.

RIVIERA CALLS ON DUBROVNIK, THE PEARL OF THE ADRIATIC

“Those who seek paradise on earth should come to Dubrovnik and find it." George Bernard Shaw

When I think of taking a Mediterranean cruise, there are a lot of images that pop into my mind, and I have to admit, until relatively recently Croatia was not one of them. But as we sailed into the port, it was clear to me that Dubrovnik, a beautifully preserved medieval walled city, is every bit as enchanting as some of the more famous tourist destinations along the Adriatic Sea.

Our arrival was greeted by the very photogenic Franjo Tudman Bridge, which is named after the first President of Croatia. Construction on the bridge was halted during the Croatian War of Independence, and the bridge was finally finished and officially opened on May 21, 2002. Against the backdrop of the crystal blue waters, Dubrovnik was already winning me over.

The Old Town was just a short distance from the pier, and I could’ve easily taken a bus or taxi. But having eaten well thus far on my cruise (as I always do on Oceania Cruises!), I figured I could use a walk, and this one was not strenuous by any means. And of course the views were lovely.

As early as the 19^th century, Dubrovnik has been a popular tourist destination, and 13 of the 23 top luxury hotels in Croatia are located in Dubrovnik. As I walked toward the Old Town, I passed the beautiful Hotel Grand Imperial. Along the way, evidence of the history of this town and its celebration of art and culture started to appear in the statues and fountains, as in this Pan and Nymph statue in a quaint little park outside of the Old town.

It is easy to see why Dubrovnik was named by CNNGo as one of the 10 best medieval walled cities in the world. The preservation of this ancient city is nothing short of miraculous given all it has endured over the centuries. In 1667, there was a severe earthquake that leveled much of the city, and although severely damaged, most of its Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque churches, monasteries, palaces and fountains were preserved.

Before making my way to the Old Town, I took in the wonderful views of the Adriatic Sea and the harbor from a lovely café overlooking it all. 

Eager to explore further, I continued on to Pile Gate, the main entrance to the Old Town, which was built in 1537 to protect the city from invaders. Every evening they would raise the wooden draw bridge, lock the gate and, in an elaborate ceremony, turn over the key to the Prince.

Guarding the entrance of Pile Gate is this statue of Saint Blaise, the patron saint of Dubrovnik. Saint Blaise is said to have appeared in a vision in 971 to warn inhabitants of an imminent attack by the Venetians.

As I passed through the gate, I was transported to a different time. After the Siege of Dubrovnik a mere twenty years ago, Dubrovnik immediately began rebuilding and took meticulous care to retain as much of its original charm as possible. It is truly remarkable how much care has been taken to preserve this UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Stradun, the main street through the Old Town, is where the action is. A little less than a quarter of a mile, this limestone-paved pedestrian street has been the main thoroughfare of this city since the 13^th century. As I wandered in and out of the little shops and enjoyed the architecture and views, I couldn’t help but wonder what was happening on this street 600 years ago.

 

At the end of the Stradun on the east side is the famous bell tower attached to a Franciscan monastery, an enduring symbol of Dubrovnik’s resilience through the centuries. Having survived earthquakes and wars since 1444, the town began to fear the bell tower’s collapse and rebuilt it to its original specifications in 1929. The bell is the only remaining original part of the tower. If you look closely at the bell tower in a few of the photos, you may see a silhouette of a man. There are two bronze figures with hammers poised to hit the bell. Because bronze turns green with time, they are affectionately called the “Dubrovnik Greens.”

As I continued to wander, I came upon a lovely harbor, and just beyond that I found an opening in the city walls that led to a café perched on a cliff. I decided to stop for some refreshment and free entertainment from the cliff divers that were making excellent use of this beautiful day!

I particularly enjoyed seeing the Old Town from the top of its walls, built mostly in the 14^th and 15^th centuries. Originally constructed to protect the vulnerable city, more than a mile of walls encircle the Old Town, and the views are spectacular.

Dubrovnik is famous for its coral-colored clay rooftops, and from the walls I was able to see further evidence of the shelling of Dubrovnik during the war. While there is little visible damage, you can easily distinguish the newly replaced tiles from the old, and the patchwork of colors serves as an unintended monument to this difficult period of Dubrovnik’s recent history.

I had a wonderful day soaking in the history and the culture of this extraordinary city, so well preserved in the face of great adversity. It is easy to see why Dubrovnik has been coined the “Pearl of the Adriatic.”

A special thank you goes out to Vanessa Cordo of Oceania Cruises. Several of these photos are ones she shared with me after her visit to Dubrovnik.

CHEF KELLY'S ADVENTURES ON RIVIERA'S LANDS OF TIME CRUISE: Part Three

This is the third and final blog of a series on my recent adventures in Egypt, Israel, Greece and Turkey. I love Mediterranean cuisine and hope to inspire you to plan a cruise to this area, so you can enjoy the flavors of these ancient cultures as I did on this voyage, Lands of Time.

After a delightful few days in Israel, it was off to Rhodes, one of my favorite ports. The old town was bustling with colorful shops and friendly merchants (and even a white parrot). For me, lunch in Rhodes is always at the welcoming fish house overlooking the church ruins. Here the tzatziki was creamy with a hint of garlic and the keftas were grilled to perfection.

After lunch I returned to the Bon Appétit Culinary Center onboard Riviera to teach a class on Greek cuisine. We had fun using the grape leaves I purchased in Israel a few days before. We also made twice-baked barley cakes that we immersed in water for 10 seconds and then dressed with grated tomato, salt, olive oil, feta cheese and dried oregano. The taste of the barley is earthy and the sweet tomato and salty feta are a perfect complement to the fruity Cretan olive oil and uniquely flavored Cretan oregano.

Our Lands of Time cruise concluded in Turkey in one of my most beloved cities, Istanbul.

Because we didn’t arrive until noon, I had time for a Turkish Delights class onboard that morning in
the Bon Appétit Culinary Center. We made Turkish lentil soup with bulgur, b’stilla with a Turkish twist,
keftas on yogurt with a sweet tomato sauce, grilled flatbread, and a delicate rice pudding scented with rose water.

One of the class favorites was the b’stilla: puff pastries filled with spiced rice and chicken, served with a cilantro and mint yogurt sauce. Here is our sous chef, Daniel, popping those in the oven.

When we arrived in Istanbul, my first stop was the spice market to visit my favorite spice merchant, Andnet at Sen Baharat. This is the best place I have found to purchase the red pepper paste that we use in our Turkish lentil soup and karniyarik (stuffed eggplant). My sister and I stopped into a recommended restaurant, Hadimi, where we enjoyed some traditional Turkish foods: humus with ground walnuts, nazuktan (eggplant with mint, almonds and yogurt) and cerkez tavugu (shredded chicken with walnuts and coriander).

Since we stayed overnight in Istanbul, we had a second day to hang out in Sultanahmet, one of my favorite neighborhoods because of the great shops, food and people watching. I had to try the baklava at an adorable little food cart and make a stop at the exquisite English bookshop, Galeri Kayseri, which specializes in English-language books on Turkish art, architecture, travel,
history and cooking. Here I found a fabulous Turkish cookbook, Classic Turkish Cookery by Ghillie Basan. It’s very approachable, and the recipes are traditional and authentic. We are testing several in the culinary center now.

It was a warm day in Istanbul, so we stopped for some perfectly pink watermelon. I always enjoy the unique offerings of Istanbul’s street vendors, such as grilled corn, freshly squeezed orange juice, and simit, which is a circular sesame bread often made with ground cherry kernels. I love that many of the merchants in Istanbul specialize in one thing and know that one thing well.

I am reading John Freely’s Istanbul (the book that Hugh Grant tried to sell Julia Roberts in the movie Notting Hill), and it’s clear that this city has a rich and complex culinary history. I think to really understand any cuisine, one must dive deep into the history of its people. Nowhere is this truer than in Istanbul. I recommend this book to anyone who is traveling to Istanbul or who simply wants to learn more about this dazzling place.

Before leaving Istanbul, we were able to squeeze in a class celebrating

the latest book by Jacques Pépin, Essential Pepin. In the class I focused on 10 tips that Pépin offers to help anyone “cook like a professional” at home. We covered the basic emulsion used for salad dressings, dry and moist heat cooking methods, crepes and the perfect tart dough. It was a great class, and we enjoyed sharing Jacques and Julia stories from his television shows with Julia Child. We also drank Jacques’ favorite wine, a Provence rosé!

And so ended another delightful trip through one of my favorite areas of the world. It was sad to leave the bustling harbor of Istanbul and say goodbye to the guests I had gotten to know over the last 15 days. I hope they will be back to visit their Oceania Cruises family soon. And if you haven’t had the opportunity to experience the extraordinary sights, sounds and tastes of the Mediterranean, I hope to see you onboard as well. Bon appétit!

CHEF KELLY'S ADVENTURES ON RIVIERA'S LANDS OF TIME CRUISE: Part Two

While it would be difficult for me to pick a favorite regional cuisine, Mediterranean cuisine certainly makes the short list, so I am excited to be taking some extra time on the blog to share my recent
adventures in Spain, Egypt, Israel, Greece and Turkey. As we begin Part Two of my three-part series on the Lands of Time cruise, Riviera has just arrived in Israel.

I have been studying a fabulous cookbook called The Book of New Israeli Food by Janna Gur and have recently developed new Culinary Discovery Tours to the markets of old Jerusalem, Ashdod and Haifa. These tours, which will be offered this fall onboard Marina, will also visit several award-winning wineries.

Israeli cuisine is in the process of being rediscovered in the food scene, but I have always loved it because it is fresh, healthy and full of tradition. Celebratory Jewish dishes mixed with traditional foods of Arab and North African nations and the inventiveness of young Israeli chefs have turned cities like Tel Aviv into up-and-coming culinary destinations.

Last year when we were in Ashdod, I spent a lovely day at the market, and I was looking forward to exploring the markets of other Israeli cities on this cruise. We first called on Haifa. I hired a driver and off we went to explore the Jewish and Arab markets in the Old City of Haifa and in Acre, 20 minutes north of Haifa. Because it was Sunday, we first headed to the Wadi Nisnas district and the Jewish market in the Old City. The mangoes, peaches and melons were in season and plentiful. I stopped at one of the spice vendors and found grape leaves, which we used in our Gloriously Modern Greek class later in the week.

Dried fruits are always plentiful in Middle Eastern markets, and the apricots were so bright and soft, I had to buy a few bags for the tagine recipes in the upcoming classes on Moroccan and Turkish cuisine. The olive monger was happy to let me sample lots of olives until I found the pungent and salty variety that was my favorite.

My taxi driver accompanied me through the market, and I loaded him up with lots of goodies. Soon our arms were full so we returned to the taxi, having only spent about 100 shekels, or 25 US dollars – not bad! But we were just getting started. We dropped off our load and returned to the market. The driver figured out that I was a chef and was happy to tell each merchant, “She is a chef on the Big O ship in the harbor.” Here’s the view from the top of Haifa, so it’s clear the locals know when we are in port.

I then asked the driver if he knew “the greatest falafel place in Haifa,” because I had been there before but could not remember the name. Apparently, this restaurant lives up to its billing because he drove me right to it. Unfortunately, it was closed, so I snapped some photos to ensure I remembered it for my next visit. Falafel Hazkenim – I won’t be forgetting that name any time soon!

We continued through Haifa and on to Acre to visit the Arab market, which was open even though it was a Sunday. The owner of the market is also an endurance rider with his Arabian stallion, and we shared stories of his races and my days of foxhunting. (Needless to say, I did not share my most recent equestrian adventure in Cairo on Humphrie the camel!)

I wanted to visit a spice shop that I found last year, Kurdi and Berit, to purchase some coriander, cloves, cardamom and black pepper. When buying spices, I always tell our guests to avoid ground spices. Purchasing them whole and grinding them is so much more fun, and the food is more flavorful as a result of the extra care.

After spending a whopping $75 on spices, we wandered through the market so I could stop and taste my favorite hummus with mushrooms in garlic sauce at the local hummus hang out, Humus Said. The umami of this dish is delicious, and it’s easy to make at home! You can make hummus by pureeing garbanzo beans with extra virgin olive oil and a few tablespoons of tahini paste, salting to taste and adding a squeeze of lemon. Then sauté a pound of sliced mushrooms with garlic in about 6 tablespoons of unsalted butter. Pour the mushrooms and butter on top of the hummus and enjoy with grilled flatbread or pita. It’s a simple recipe and it’s heavenly! 

Spices and hummus were only the beginning of my market adventure in Acre. Like many markets in the region, the Acre market offers almost anything your heart desires – produce, fish, pastries, ceramics, clothing, kitchen supplies, and even a cobbler to fix your shoes!

When we were traveling to the Dead Sea, we saw groves of date palm trees with nets to protect the dates from the hungry birds.

And here at the market those dates were for sale. Of course, I had to pick up some for a tasting in class.

I also purchased a kilo of sunflower seeds. We eat these by the bagful when in Israel, snacking on them like popcorn. The seeds here are huge and very tasty.

The breads and pastries in Israel were beautifully displayed and baked fresh daily. These little breads were covered with za’atar, a mixture of sour sumac, dried thyme and marjoram and sesame seeds. The bread is eaten plain as a snack or with the many varieties of hummus that you find here.

All kinds of fruit drinks were available, many freshly squeezed to order. Prickly pears were in season, and they make a delicious drink. You can find pomegranate and orange juices almost everywhere, and they are especially refreshing in the heat of the summer.

After a morning of heavy-duty shopping, I was ready for lunch, so I headed out to the German Colony to one of my favorite restaurants, Fattoush. I love their welcome sign, which is a beautiful tribute to tolerance and how food unites us all.

I ordered a shredded chicken dish (an Israeli take on shawarma) with grilled onions and fresh tomatoes and, of course, the pickled cucumbers that are so much of part of the cuisine of Israel.

 

At Fattoush I dined outside amidst the Baha’i Gardens, where brightly colored glass lanterns and balls dangled from the trees overhead. The setting was delightful and the food even better.

After three fabulous days in Israel, it was time to sail on to Greece and Turkey. As much as I would have loved to stay and explore more, I was very excited for what was to come in some of my favorite ports of call. In my final blog of this series, I will share more photos and experiences from my Mediterranean adventure, as the Lands of Time cruise concludes.

CHEF KELLY'S ADVENTURES ON RIVIERA'S LANDS OF TIME CRUISE: Part One

Riviera has just sailed from Istanbul, the city described by a 14th-century poet as “surrounded by a garland of waters.” The Galata Bridge diminishes behind us as we cruise along the Golden Horn to where it meets the Bosphorus and the Sea of Marmara. This was the final port on our 15-day cruise, Lands of Time, during which we traveled from Barcelona to Istanbul, stopping in Alexandria, Haifa and many other ports along the way. I had the opportunity to experience cuisines from all across the Mediterranean, and so I will be sharing a three-part series here on the blog with the many highlights of this magical voyage.

We welcomed guests onboard in Barcelona, including my sister, Erin, who is traveling with me for a month. Our first stop was the Boqueria Market, a must-visit every time I am in Gaudi’s city by the sea, for breakfast at my favorite little stall. They always have a plate of fresh vegetables, such as artichokes and mushrooms, that they sauté with your eggs and of course, jamon. What would Barcelona be without jamon Iberico and fried eggs for breakfast? Yum!

 

We had two sea days on this cruise, which are always busy days in the Bon Appétit Culinary Center. The classes were full and, as always, a lot of fun. We welcomed several families who took classes together and many guests who were true “foodies.” Having just returned from the Baltic, we celebrated with some new recipes in the Crazy for Crepes class: Swedish pancakes with saffron (a spice brought to Sweden by the Vikings from Constantinople) and authentic buckwheat galettes from Brittany.

After stops in Ibiza and Malta, we arrived at the healthy cuisine capital of the planet, Crete. Escorting 24 of our guests, I led a Culinary Discovery Tour to the small Cretan village of Arolithos, one of our favorite culinary destinations this summer. We were greeted by the friendly faces of our hosts who shared their favorite Cretan dishes in a hands-on cooking demonstration. Guests learned to stuff tomato and grape leaves with a heavenly vegetable mixture. They also made agnopites – a phyllo-like dough made with the local raki liqueur and rolled with myzithra cheese into a treat resembling a cinnamon roll. It is fried and then served drenched in Cretan honey that has a delicate hint of thyme. After a few hours of cooking demonstrations, tasting and strolling through this historic village, we sat for a delightful lunch overlooking the ocean and the olive and grape vineyards below. As they nibbled at the wild herbs and olive tree leaves around us, flocks of sheep bleated as if encouraging us to come and visit anytime!

After an enchanting day in Crete, we were off on a four-day immersion into the cuisines and cultures of Cairo, Ashdod and Haifa. Since my favorite cuisines are those with lots of fresh produce, vegetables and grilled meats, I was looking forward to tasting the foods of these ancient cities.

In Cairo, we began with a visit to the pyramids where my sister made me ride a camel. His name was Humphrie, and the ride felt nothing like the riding I did for 20 years on my sporting horses in Middleburg, Virginia! But you couldn’t beat the scenery – three pyramids and a Sphinx!

As we drove through Cairo to rendezvous with the boat that would take us down the Nile, it became clear that mangoes were in season because they were being sold in little stands every few feet. Eating seasonal foods is still a way of life here, not a farm-to-market “movement,” as it is in other parts of the world.

 

We ate lunch on a beautifully decorated riverboat as it sailed down the Nile. The buffet was a delicious collection of mezze: hummus with black olives, grilled eggplant puree with yogurt and chilies, dolmas (fresh grape leaves stuffed with minced lamb, raisins and seasoned rice), minted yogurt and freshly sliced tomatoes and cucumbers. The keftas, or meatballs, made with ground lamb, beef and veal were delicious. Keftas are an integral part of Middle Eastern cuisine, and it is always fun to taste the various seasonings and meats that are used to make them.

After a wonderful day in Cairo, we were off to Israel. I had been studying Israeli cuisine and was eager to spend some more time in this amazing country. I look forward to sharing my stories from Israel with you in Part Two of this series on our adventures on Riviera's Lands of Time cruise.

AN UNEXPECTED ADVENTURE IN MONTE CARLO

Regatta recently called on the glittering city of Monte Carlo in the tiny principality of Monaco. When I think of Monte Carlo, I think of James Bond and movie stars in tuxedos and gowns. Monaco is where the rich and famous convene to play high-stakes poker, or race fast cars, or simply lounge on lavish yachts. Monaco certainly lives up to its reputation as a playground for the wealthy, but what really impressed me was how charming it was and how much there is to do for people like me. (Unfortunately, my role as Blogger-at-Large has not yet catapulted me into international fame.)

Granted, when Regatta docked in the famed Monte Carlo harbor, the million-dollar yachts were hard to miss, and the view was spectacular. There are several cafés on the docks near these impressive vessels, and if you linger there a while, you may spot a celebrity or two.

 

Also living up to its hype is the opulent Monte Carlo Grand Casino – there is a reason all those films were made here. Decorated with marble, onyx, frescoes and sculptures, this casino was clearly built for high rollers.

 

For those who don’t fare so well at the tables, they can find a peaceful retreat in the stunning garden that leads up the hill to the casino.

While Monte Carlo was certainly everything I’d ever imagined, I soon realized there was far more to Monaco than glitz and glamour. Perched atop the sheer cliff face at a height of 279 feet is the Oceanographic Museum, which was founded in 1901 by Monaco’s Prince Albert I, and where Jacques Cousteau served as director for many years. The building itself took 11 years to build using over 100,000 tons of stone. There are several live exhibits as well as impressive skeletons of marine mammals.

Near the Oceanographic Museum is St. Nicholas Cathedral, which contains the tombs of the Monaco royal family, including Princess Grace and Prince Rainier. It remains a pilgrimage site for fans of actress Grace Kelly, who became the princess of Monaco after her fairytale marriage to Rainier in 1956.

Although much smaller than the cathedral, the Church of St. Charles makes up for in beauty what it lacks in size. Its bell tower reaches a height of 108 feet above sea level and is purported to be the highest bell tower in the area.

 

The Palace of the Prince is an impressive compound with wonderful views of Monaco and the surrounding seas. While much of the palace grounds are open to the public, the royal family does maintain a private residence here, as evidenced by the sentries standing guard. If you can get to the palace by 11:55 am, you can watch the changing of the guard, a popular attraction.

Monte Carlo is a wonderful place to just wander the streets and get a sense of the city’s personality. Beneath the resort façade is a culture of centuries-old traditions and deep spirituality. During my meanderings, I stumbled upon Sainte-Dévote Chapel, an adorable little church tucked into the cliff face overlooking the harbor. I soon learned that the church is quite literally adored, as it is one of the most venerated religious sites in Monaco. Dating from before 1070, the church is dedicated to Saint Dévote, the patron saint of Monaco. By tradition, the bride of the Sovereign Prince of Monaco leaves her bouquet here after the wedding ceremony.

 

  

I was so charmed by the architecture, the city streets and the stunning views of the Mediterranean that the waning daylight took me by surprise. As I began to head back to the ship, I realized I had not visited the new modern art museum or the Jardin Exotique, a beautiful garden with one of the most extensive cactus collections in Europe. It quickly became clear that I would need to visit Monte Carlo again on another Oceania Cruises voyage! Until then, I would treasure the memory of my day here, which came to a perfect ending as I watched the moon rise over the sparkling lights of the city.

68 AND SUNNY IN ST. PETERSBURG TODAY!

As the unrelenting heat continues across the United States, it seems like the perfect time to get away with Oceania Cruises in search of a summer adventure and relief from triple-digit temperatures. 

As Blogger-at-Large, I pay close attention to Oceania Cruises' Facebook and Twitter posts on #WhereintheWorld are our ships today?. I couldn't help but get a little nostalgic when I saw that Marina made a recent stop in St. Petersburg, Russia, one of my favorite cities. 

After founding St. Petersburg in 1703, Peter the Great helped build this city of grandeur. It served as Russia's imperial capital almost continuously from 1713 until 1918. Nearly five million people call St.

Petersburg home today, and the city is a mere six degrees latitude from the Arctic Circle, making it the largest city in the world in such a northerly location.

The day I visited, our Oceania Cruises shore excursion began at Saint Isaac's Cathedral, the largest Russian Orthodox Cathedral in the city. It's hard to believe that the design of this building was originally criticized by some as dry and boring. During World War II, the dome was painted gray to avoid the attention of enemy aircraft. Fortunately, it worked, and even more fortunately, today all traces of gray are gone!

Our next stop was the Peter and Paul Fortress, the final resting place of Russia's tsars. From Peter the Great to Tsar Nicholas II, emperors and empresses were entombed in this cathedral, elaborately decorated in gold and marble. You would never know by looking at it that this was once a prison for high-ranking political prisoners. Famous inmates include Fyodor Dostoevsky and Leon Trotsky.

 

We also visited the Church of the Savior on Spilled Blood, which is dedicated to the memory of Tsar Alexander II and was built on the spot where he was assassinated. It contains over 7,500 meters of mosaics, second only to the Cathedral Basilica of St. Louise in Missouri!

Next to the church is one of many waterways cutting through St. Petersburg, giving it a feel similar to Amsterdam and Venice. The city has 42 islands, which mark the northernmost point of the ancient north-south trading route called the Amber Road. Interestingly, the southern endpoint is Venice.

Later we ventured into the countryside outside of St. Petersburg to see the tsars' summer home, Catherine Palace. Before entering the palace, we were lead through an exhibit featuring the different modes of transportation used to shuttle royalty back and forth to the city. 

Exiting this exhibit, the compound opens up to reveal the magnificent palace and grounds that practically took my breath away. The bright blue of the palace is a striking contrast to the surrounding lush green forest and is the perfect backdrop for a spontaneous ballet in the courtyard.

After being treated as visiting dignitaries at the palace, our excursion led us to a feast that was designed to give us all a taste of Russian folk culture. The food, dance and camaraderie made my visit to the Catherine Palace truly unforgettable.

Oceania Cruises itineraries often include two days in St. Petersburg so that guests have a chance to explore this amazing city at length. Before heading onto our next port of call, I took advantage of the extra day and enjoyed a shore excursion to the Hermitage Museum.

One of the oldest museums in the world, it was established in 1764 by Catherine the Great. Only four of the six buildings are open to the public, the most famous being the Winter Palace. But with over three million artifacts in the collection, including the largest collection of paintings in the world, there was plenty to see. We had to find the perfect balance between moving fast enough to see as much as possible but still taking the time to soak in the amazing architecture, artifacts and artworks. Thank goodness our Oceania Cruises guide enabled us to bypass the line to get in!

I am thrilled for Marina's guests who visited St. Petersburg this week. It is truly an extraordinary city, and I have no doubt that they enjoyed a once in a lifetime experience. Not to mention, it has been 68 degrees and sunny in St Petersburg all week. Perfect cruising weather!

RIGA’S MARKET AND LATVIAN COOKING LESSONS WITH CHEF KELLY

Latvia is an enchanting country, and Riga is one of my favorite cities. After a few of my colleagues and I visited the expansive market in Riga last year, I knew that we had to share this with our guests as a Culinary Discovery Tour.

On our recent tour, we rode along the boulevard of Art Nouveau buildings that are so much a part of the personality of Riga. Each one has an intriguing character all its own. It was a sunny day, and people were already picking their spots in the many parks for a Saturday of lounging and picnicking. There had been a festival the previous weekend celebrating the pig (everything’s better with bacon… right?), so the parks were decorated with beautiful rustic statues of pigs made from wood.

 

After a quick bus tour of the city, we took a short walk to the cooking school. I had been emailing the school’s chef about potential recipes for our time together and was excited to see what local seasonal fare we would find today. I had a chuckle at the sign outside the restaurant that read, “99% Latvian Food.” (I later found out from the chef that his love of olive oil accounts for the other 1%.)

 

 

We were warmly greeted by Master Chef Karlis and the owner of Viesistaba, Agate Luse. Their facility occupies the second floor of a trendy restaurant and boutique hotel and is a brightly lit, fully equipped teaching kitchen. Cooking schools like this are popping up all over the world, and this one is perfect for a group of 24, the size of our Bon Appétit Culinary Center class.

 
After the cooking program and menu were explained, our guests were given several stations and knives to begin preparing the salad, a watermelon and fresh tomato mix with rhubarb vinaigrette and a local Latvian cow cheese, brinza, which has a tart finish similar to feta. Both in season, the tomatoes and watermelon were so flavorful. Chef Karlis pointed out that this is why his menu changes weekly and seasonally. The climate in Latvia is typically very cold in winter with long seasonal summers when bumper crops produce fruits and vegetables that are either consumed or pickled and dried. 

 

With the salad, Chef Karlis served a Latvian meatball with a homemade harissa yogurt sauce. Chef explained that the peppers in Latvia are plentiful, and chefs have their own variety of harissa they use to add a warmth and spiciness to their yogurt sauce. Chef served the meatball with fresh beans and carrots he found at the market earlier that morning.

 

With our lunch we tasted three beers. Chef explained that beer is very popular in Latvia because of a strong Germanic influence and that wines are an emerging trend.

   

The table was beautifully set and we enjoyed the food, beer tasting and company. As Jacques Pépin says, it is not just about the food – a great meal is a memory of good company, good wine and good food. That was certainly the case on this day.

After lunch we hopped back on the bus with Chef Karlis as our guide and ventured into the sprawling market of Riga. The market is mostly covered and also has several
outdoor stalls, referred to as the “private sector,” that locals can rent to sell the week’s bumper crop. The stalls inside are owned and operated by butchers and vendors who have been in the same spot for generations. There are five pavilions, all former zeppelin hangers from another era.

The first pavilion we visited was the fish market. Chef Karlis explained that fish in Riga is largely from the Baltic, and that the selection is not as varied as it is in the Mediterranean or in Seattle, where he was a chef for many years. There are both fresh and salt-water fish available, but nothing huge like the swordfish or tuna we have seen in Sicily. What they do have in abundance here is smoked fish – aisles and aisles of it! There is so much fish they make arrangements of them in baskets – like flowers! We did spy some sturgeon and caviar, but as Chef explains, the prices have shot so high that caviar is not affordable for even the wealthiest citizens of Riga.

 

   

Before exiting the fish pavilion, we noted the beer stand with a tap right into an enormous drum.

After the fish pavilion came fresh produce. We scurried on to the pavilion with the picked vegetables…wow, was that a feast for the mouth and eyes! Chef had arranged for us to have a few tastings, so we stopped at a stall owned and operated by two sisters. They offered us sliced pickles to start followed by curried cabbage and slaws from large, mounded displays. This pavilion also had legumes, dried fruits, cucumbers and dill, ready for this season’s pickling.

 

    

   

 

Before leaving the pavilion, we stopped by a vendor who specializes in garlic. He pickles fresh garlic, including the stalks, which are considered a delicacy in Latvia. It seems they pickle and smoke just about anything! In fact, the underground floors of the market not only have lockers to store food at night but smoking and pickling rooms as well.

Fortified by the various tastings, we moved on to the dairy pavilion where we were treated to cheeses with caraway and sun-dried tomato. Dairy is very important in the Latvian diet, and it is clear that Latvians appreciate both fresh and aged cheeses in their diverse cuisine.

We popped outside to the “private sector” to check out what the local farmers had to offer at this Saturday’s market. What a feast for the eyes: cherries, berries, potatoes (and not just one variety – dozens of new potatoes, fresh and unscrubbed from the garden).

   

But what stopped me in my tracks were the chanterelle mushrooms at 2.50 euro per kilo! On the next tour on July 17, I am hoping they are still in season, as I know Chef Noelle and her tour will want to make a stop and take a few bags back to the ship for class. I didn’t have time to stop and purchase some, and I am still kicking myself a day later!  

Before heading into the meat pavilion, we stopped in a section of the market that sells flowers. My mother is a master gardener, and I always think of her when I see lobelia, begonias and hanging fuchsia – as was the case today. Thanks to Mom’s instructions over the years, I am actually as good at identifying flowers as I am produce! Thanks, Mom!

 

We moved on to the meat pavilion where we saw many beautiful cuts of meat – smoked meats, sausages and my personal find, lardo. There was also a conveniently located vinoteca, where we could wash down the local smoked sausage with a glass of wine.

 

Invigorated by our walk through the market, we headed to the bus and back to the cooking school to taste a beet soup that chef prepared for us as a bon voyage offering.

To cap off our day, we met in the Bon Appétit Culinary Center for our Flavors of the Sea class. It is a technique class where I focus on moist heat methods (shallow poach and deep poach) and dry heat methods (sauté and pan fry) so that our guests can master the art of fish cookery. For this class I took out a salmon I had cured the day before and shared it with the group. They were so intrigued that I got out a fresh piece of salmon and made another gravlax. Guests often email me when they try these techniques at home, and I’m expecting to hear many success stories about their adventures curing lox. Given the price of gravlax these days, it should help save some pennies for the next Oceania Cruises adventure and Culinary Discovery Tour!

A FARM-TO-TABLE ODYSSEY WITH CHEF KELLY IN GOTLAND

Having spent two years in upstate New York’s famed Hudson Valley, I thought I had seen the best farm-to-table restaurants, seasonal farmers’ markets and agricultural sustainability. As idyllic as the Hudson Valley is, if I were a vegetable, I would want to live on the Swedish island of Gotland.

Recently we officially launched the first season of the Baltic series of our Culinary Discovery Tours by boarding our bus and heading out for an authentic farm-to-table day in magical Visby, Sweden. 

Our first stop was Lilla Bjers Farm, 10 minutes from the port, where we met Margareta and Goran Hoas, pioneers in the Gotland organic farming scene.

Lilla Bjers Farm has been in the same family for generations. After Margareta and Goran had their first child 15 years ago, they needed to decide whether they wanted to sell the family farm or become farmers. Goran was born on the farm and was inclined to sell, but Margareta, who comes from upland Sweden, thought it would be romantic to move their young family to the farm and live off the land. Shortly thereafter , Goran's father became ill with ALS, and they felt that his illness was linked to the enormous amount of pesticides used on the farm. So they committed themselves to organic farming, and the rest, as they say in Visby, is history.

When we arrived, we were warmly welcomed by these passionate yet humble farmers. After taking a few minutes to tell us about the property and their mission, we were invited to tour the asparagus patch, where this spring’s harvest was just recently completed.

 

Apparently, once asparagus is harvested, it must be left to bolt and go to seed for next season’s crop. Lilla Bjers Farm is famous for their asparagus, and we were promised a taste later in the day. We were told that asparagus season at Lilla Bjers Farm starts on April 13 – Goran’s birthday– and ends on June 17 – Margareta’s birthday. Made sense to us!

 

   
As we strolled through the farm, workers were harvesting everything from red leaf lettuce to brightly colored beets and carrots. Even our sous chef, Veneesh, got his hands on the newly harvested carrots. The fields were lush with peppers, lettuces and the hint of young plants that will mature as the summer progresses.

 

Next we headed to the greenhouses that were spilling over with herbs and peppers. Our guide talked about each of the herbs and let us pluck the leaves and savor the intense aroma. Tarragon is a specialty of the island, and we were treated to a leaf to try. They make a tarragon vinegar at the farm that is shipped all the way to Stockholm.

   


Three lemon trees had just arrived, and it seemed that there was nothing that would not grow at Lilla Bjers Farm. Even the roses were happy to live here.

The most recent addition to the farm is a new restaurant. The menu changes daily, and the commitment is to seasonal and local products and producers. We were told that every element of the restaurant was sourced locally, and since opening, the restaurant has been a great success.

In the chicken yard across from the restaurant, the guinea hens, chickens and roosters were feasting on the cucumbers and dill stalks discarded by the restaurant prep chefs.

Before leaving, we stopped into the little store that the farm operates. By design, Lilla Bjers Farm caters to Visby restaurants and local families who shop there daily. The restaurant uses a majority of the produce, so there is no plan to distribute their products further. The store is stocked with fresh produce, preserves, salts, nuts and breads.

   

 

I purchased strawberries for the Swedish pancakes we planned to make later in the culinary center and dill for the Swedish meatballs.

To ensure we capture a “taste of Visby” in our pancakes, we will use saffron, originally brought to the island from Constantinople by Viking traders.

After a good-bye hug and a wave from Margareta and Goran, we boarded our bus. I told them to keep an eye out for my colleague, Chef Noelle Barille, who will arrive with our next group in about 10 days! By then, Goran tells me, the melon plants will be popping from this magical, mineral-rich island soil.

Our second stop is Ejmunds Gard, which translates Ejmunds Farm, where at the end of a long tree-lined driveway, Maud and her fifth-generation cattle-farming husband are transforming the face of Sweden’s beef industry.

 

Inspired by the Kobe beef craze, Ejmunds Farm is raising the most prized meat in Sweden. We were greeted by Maud and her amorous chocolate lab, Stella. After a discussion about the philosophy and history of the farm, we began a tour of the property. It was clear these cows were “living the good life,” feasting on potatoes and enjoying a lot of space to roam – even when indoors.

 

The Canyon Ranch staff would be impressed to know that there was a large green bristle brush, hanging like a punching bag, for these cows to scratch themselves on. After their shyness wore off, they treated us to quite of show of nuzzling and scratching. 

We spent some time in the barns talking about hay production and cattle farming and watching the cows enjoy the warm July sunshine.

 

Before we left, Maud showed us the experiment they recently launched – a truffle patch! They purchased hazelnut trees from an up-island source that had successfully harvested a species of black truffle in the 1990s. They are attempting to cultivate these black “stava” truffles on the farm – with the help of some good fertilizer from their furry friends!

After saying good-bye to Maud (and Stella), we headed to Visby for a short walking tour and lunch. There was a summer festival, so we were warned that it would be a busy day in “the big city.” 

 

We strolled through a beautiful park that used to be the port.

 

   

Picnickers were lounging under centuries-old trees, and because of the extended spring on Gotland, the flowers were overflowing out of their pots and the roses were climbing the limestone ring walls that surround the old city.

 

Lunch was at the famed 50 Kvadrat, hosted by chef and owner Fredrik Malmstedt, the award-winning innovator (along with his wife) of modern Swedish cuisine.

 


We were seated outside on a delightfully warm afternoon and served fresh baked breads and the local Sleepy Bulldog Ale. The first course was asparagus (from Lilla Bjers Farm) and a thinly sliced smoked beef from Ejmunds Farm. Chef explained that he is trying to introduce Visby to non-traditional cuts of meat. Because of the abundance of great beef on the island, most people eat only the prime cuts and grind the rest into burger. He’s not trying to inspire an offal trend; he’s just introducing cuts like hangar and skirt steak to a population that has heretofore feasted primarily on rib eye and tenderloin!

 

The second course was another non-traditional cut of beef from Ejmunds Farm and baby vegetables from – you guessed it – Lilla Bjers Farm. Several of us paired this dish with the sommelier’s recommended Spanish tempranillo. Its deep red fruits and mellow tannins were perfection. Dessert was rhubarb and strawberries on a bed of panna cotta, adorably presented in a preserve jar. After autographing his fabulous cookbook, “A Taste of Gotland,” Chef Malmstedt gave us good-bye hugs, and we were escorted back to the ship to rest before our cooking class.

I took a short detour to a recommended cheese store called Wisbyost where I picked up some island specialties: a Salambar berry preserve, truffle salt, salumi and saffron salt. Then I headed to the culinary center where Chef Vaneesh had a display of all our local purchases to use during our class.

   

At 4 pm our intrepid group of foodies reconvened for a class in the culinary center. We made authentic Swedish meatballs with a sour cream sauce and cranberry coulis, saffron pannkaka (saffron pancakes) and mulled wine.

 

I also demonstrated how to make gravlax at home. We discussed what we saw that day but also what was to come in the markets in Riga and Helsinki – the land of salmon (and gravlax).

 

   

A great time was had by all as we celebrated the farm-to-table lifestyle of Gotland. 

A MAGICAL DAY IN THE TUSCAN COUNTRYSIDE

 

I am so excited about all of our new Culinary Discovery Tours; some of the experiences we have had have been truly magical. Such was the case on a recent tour in Livorno. Because it was a Sunday and the market was closed, we boarded our bus and headed to the Torre a Cenaia winery in the heart of the Tuscan countryside. As we approached the winery on a gravel driveway lined with cypress trees, it was clear this was a very special place. I felt like I was on a Merchant Ivory movie set! 

The first stop was the quaint winery and cellars, which were impeccably kept. We were shown an oxygen release system on the old barrels that we were told was invented by none other than Leonardo da Vinci. The Pitti family has been making red, white and rosé wines for centuries, and the primary grape is the Sangiovese – my personal favorite of this region of Italy. In one part of the cellar, the private reserve bottles were stored in a unique triangular pattern. We wondered if it was for theft prevention, like oranges at the market – if you take the wrong one, the whole display comes apart!

 

After a half hour in the winery, we were treated to a carriage ride behind a two-in-hand team of beautiful draft horses. There were 24 of us, so we divided into two groups, and two carriages took us to the stone field house where we would have our cooking classes and lunch.

As we approached the little stone house, we could see it was set for our meal – so inviting and lovely. Tables were set in the middle of a field of wildflowers and tall cypress trees, like a Tuscan painting. The house had been converted to an open-air kitchen, complete with a large working table and a wood-fired oven.

Our host, Chef David, was well prepared to begin his first dish, a focaccia made with olive oil and farina.

He asked for help from our guests, who were happy to dive right in.

After a good dousing with olive oil the dough went into the white hot oven, and then out it came for us to taste with a lovely white wine made from grapes grown on 200 of the 1,000 acres of vines the family maintains.

The next item on the menu was pizza. While we waited, we were treated to salumi made from pigs that were raised on the property.

Fortified, we dove into pizza making with vigor.

Sitting on top of the refrigerator was a bunch of arugula that had been picked that morning. We couldn’t help but sneak a few leaves, and we were impressed with how zesty and peppery they were. With the pizzas sauced and ready, in they went to the blazing oven, hot enough to create a perfectly crispy, caramelized crust with an intense tomato flavor.

Not a lot of toppings were needed here! Happy with our accomplishments, we moved to the picturesque lunch setting to sip Brunello di Montalcino and munch on pizza. 

After our lunch, the carriages took us on a 30-minute ride around the property while Chef David prepared our dessert – a family recipe for cantucci, a semi-soft cake made with anise. As we took in the amazing scenery, we all noticed a white horse following us. He entertained us on the entire carriage ride by coming close and then venturing off to torment other horses in their fenced-in paddocks.

When we returned, Chef David was waiting for us with a cooking demonstration and dessert. I could not resist getting in on the action and helped Chef David with the cantucci.

You can see Chef here with his anise liquor and his flat of eggs. He was kind enough to share the recipe with us: 1 pound butter, 2 pounds sugar, 14 eggs, 1 packet of yeast, 2 pounds flour and ½ cup anise… You’ll have to come on a future tour to see how it is made!

One of our guests, a physician from the Northeast and a great friend of Oceania Cruises’ culinary centers, made friends with the white horse, who became our unofficial escort for the day.

 

After dessert and a lovely dessert wine, we were taken back to the cellar and allowed to purchase wines and delicacies.

It was sad to say good-bye, especially when there was a family wedding celebration taking place with children running about and delicious pastas and braises coming out of the home-style winery kitchens.

Back at the Bon Appétit Culinary Center, we had a class on pasta making, and it was such fun!

The magnificent pasta dishes that were being served to the wedding guests at the winery inspired us all!

It was a perfect Sunday in Tuscany and one I will not soon forget. The wine, the food and the hospitality – as well as the new friendships – are what make these tours so special. I’ve said many times, “I have the greatest gig in the world!” And this was one of the days that makes that statement an indisputable fact.

 

SCOUTING LOCATIONS FOR CULINARY DISCOVERY TOURS WITH CHEF KELLY

We are so pleased by the overwhelmingly positive responses to our Culinary Discovery Tours this spring. We have visited markets in Corfu and Nice, had lunch overlooking the Cote d’Azur and enjoyed a lunch and wine tasting hosted by the “grandfather of Provence cuisine,” to name a few favorites.

After the successful launch of over 20 Culinary Discovery Tours in the Mediterranean, we are moving on to the Baltic. On this cruise we will experience a farm-to-table adventure that starts at Ejmunds Farm, founded in 1860, and ends in Visby’s renowned restaurant 50 Kvadrat, all the while dining on dishes from local farms. Also, we will visit the impressive markets in Riga and Helsinki. 

I am often asked, “How do you find these locations?” So I thought I would share some of my most memorable moments exploring different locations for possible Culinary Discovery Tours.

After spending time in the sunny Mediterranean on Riviera, I traveled to Dover for our Northern Interludes cruise to Ireland, Iceland and Norway. It was time to switch gears, and I was excited to join Chef Noelle, who had already begun scouting locations in Dublin, and concentrate on the cuisines of cooler climates. First up was Iceland. I took the “Golden Circle” tour and enjoyed the geysers and waterfalls, but I was even more fascinated by the use of geothermal energy in Reykjavik. They use it to bake bread and to warm greenhouses for vegetable farming! I’m recruiting one of the master bakers from the Culinary Institute of America to join us on a future cruise to explore this island and the culinary and farming traditions.

Next I was off to Kristiansand in Norway, where we were greeted in the port by a giant moose! The fish market here is legendary. After a short stroll from Marina, I crossed a little wooden bridge to a too-quaint-for-words village and found a red wooden clapboard building housing a tiny fish market.

I often demonstrate fish fabrication for my classes, but these enormous salmon would be a challenge. They were twice the size of the salmon we normally see in the States. There were many varieties of fish swimming in tanks, including something I had never seen – a winter flounder settled comfortably on the bottom of the tank.

Staring at the huge lobsters swimming freely in their tanks, I imagined them holding signs that said, “Pick me!” There were vats of pickled fish and beets and other delicacies that would make for a lovely picnic. An impressive little fish market indeed!

I wandered in to town on the recommendation of several guests who had mentioned a local produce vendor in the center of town. There I found brilliant white and mystically purple cauliflower, conical shaped cabbage, seasonal strawberries and cherries and my personal favorite, celery root.

The radishes were huge, evidence of the magnificent growing season here in the “land of the midnight sun.” (Not great for sleeping through the night, by the way, but they tell me that’s not an issue for the locals.) It was a great day exploring and definitely a Culinary Discovery Tour prospect for 2013.

 

When we visited Copenhagen on the first day of the Baltic Treasures cruise, I took a trip to the meatpacking district, a trendy new neighborhood with artisanal food shops, fish mongers, sausage makers, wine bars and great coffee houses.

I stopped along the canal for a cup of coffee at an adorable little truck that the barista drives to and from her locations. (At six feet tall, I would never fit into the tiny driver’s seat!)

Afterward I stopped for some granola at a neighborhood café, aptly named Granola. I talked with the owner about how the dozens of varieties of preserves that lined the walls were made. Of course, they were made right there in the shop!

 

 

 

Earlier this season on one of our Mediterranean sailings, I had an amazing opportunity to scout a new tour in Venice. We will be offering the tour in the fall, and I am really excited to share it with you. As many of you know, our onboard venue known as La Reserve pairs the perfect wines with the creations of our brilliant executive chef, and my culinary twin, Franck Garanger. The newest menu for La Reserve was launched this spring, and for the Kobe beef and chocolate sauce dish (yes, you read that correctly!), we found the most magnificent pairing in an Amarone from the Fumanelli winery.

In addition to making some of the most velvety and sensuous wines in Veneto, the Fumanellis have also turned part of their property into a culinary school. The winery has been in the family for centuries, and the current owners are an enchanting couple that travels the globe promoting their wines (in addition to playing polo, racing cars and hobnobbing with celebrities).

 

 

 

You can imagine how excited Franck and I were as we set out to scout this new venue. After a 90-minute drive through Veneto, we were greeted by the cellar master and a local cheese master, who offered us several cheeses to sample with the Fumanelli Valpolicella. We had never heard of most of the cheeses, and we were delighted to learn that they were named after the owner of the sheep or goats from which the milk came! Then we were led up narrow stairs to the attic where hundreds of wooden flats lay ready for this year’s grapes. Amarone is made from “raisinated” grapes, which means that after the grapes are harvested, they dry in the attic for several weeks before being crushed.

After a tour of the cellar, which housed an underground tunnel, Mr. Fumanelli treated me to a ride to the cooking school in his vintage Aston Martin. He was racing in the Mille Miglia the next day with the president of BMW, so I figured I was in good hands.

 

Off we went down a little gravel road to a farmhouse that had been converted into a cooking school and inn. We spent time with the chef and learned about many of the unique ingredients of the region, one of which is a rare breed of small chicken that makes a lovely ragu. (As a former poultry farmer, I know that all good things come to an end!)

After a tour of the school and an hour with the chefs, we sat down with the Fumanellis and several of their guests to enjoy an unforgettable lunch. It was the beginning of cherry season, so the table was spilling over with fresh cherries.

We had pasta with white ragu followed by a cookie made with semolina and nuts and topped with grappa. (I was glad I was not driving). The Fumanellis were wonderful hosts, and our day could not have been more perfect.

 

Needless to say, the tour will be amazing, and we are thrilled that our first guest chef to host this tour in the fall will be none other than Barbara Lynch, the owner and executive chef of six restaurants in Boston, as well as a judge for the U.S. team competition for the Bocuse d’Or, the Olympics of cooking. I know this tour will be a huge hit with our guests who are diehard food and wine lovers!

I hope this gives you some insight into how we scout locations and venues for our Culinary Discovery Tours. I couldn’t do this without JoAnne Skrukrud of Oceania Cruises’ destinations team, who connects me with our brilliant operators in various ports and regions. I’m also grateful for chefs Annie Copps, Noelle Barille, David Shalleck and Susie Heller, the faculty of the Bon Appétit Culinary Center. Like me, they are always on the lookout for great tours.

Now I’m off to an open house to greet our new guests. It will be an exciting cruise, and I will post lots of pictures and happenings from our three new tours. Until then, bon appétit!

CHEF DAVID SHALLECK AND KUNAL KAMLANI ENJOY A CULINARY DISCOVERY TOUR

Chef David Shalleck has just joined the Bon Appétit Culinary Center onboard Riviera. He is the author of Mediterranean Summer, has produced television shows for Jacques Pépin and has appeared on Iron Chef with Riviera’s godmother, Cat Cora.

Today was truly something special for both David and myself. It was our first Culinary Discovery Tour: The Flavors of Provence. Chef David navigated the culinary delights of Provence while I had the chance to observe how much our guests enjoyed this epicurean adventure.

 

Mrs. Deborah Murphy, Chef David Shallack, Kunal S. Kamlani, Mrs. Debra Clay, Mr. Paul Murphy

We started at the fish market in the old port of Marseille where the fishmongers were displaying their catch. There was everything from swordfish to shark to moray eels and, of course, the all important rascasse, or scorpion fish, which must always be considered when even thinking about making bouillabaisse!

Afterwards we headed to Chateau de Fontblanche in Cassis about fifteen miles from Marseille, where we were treated to a five-course tasting and wine pairing menu prepared by Provençal Chef Gui Gedda. We enjoyed this casual and delicious meal in the shade of a giant oak tree on the edge of the vineyard with a glorious panorama of the foothills behind us.

We started with a classic barbajuan paired with a light, dry, crisp rosé wine. The barbajuan was a delightful vegetable beignet filled with roasted and chopped zucchini, onion, tomato and a hint of herbes de Provence.

Next we enjoyed a purée of eggplant and garlic (lots of garlic!) with a touch of anchovy, scooped out of interesting little ceramic bowls using garden vegetable crudités. This dish was matched with a delightful white wine made from Marsanne grapes.

Then came a version of pissaladière, the pizza-like snack from Southern France made with caramelized onions, anchovies, and olives. It was spectacular. Instead of anchovies, Chef Gui's version was topped with a bite-size mignon of red mullet. The tart was paired with a Cassis white wine, unique in that the grapes had not been pressed as they would be in the traditional winemaking process. The natural weight of the grapes extracts the juices.

Chef David, Chef Gui and Kunal Kamlani

Before desert we dined on incredibly tender beef daube – braised beef – accompanied by noodles generously topped with grated Gruyère cheese. Chef Gui's secret for his daube is that it is made with beef cheeks marinated in red wine and bay leaves for 24 hours. It is then seared and cooked at a very low simmer in wine, thyme, rosemary and other herbs for four hours. This was paired with a very well-balanced red wine that was 60 percent Grenache and 40 percent Mourvèdre.

 

We finished with an apricot tarte tatin served with fresh cream and lavender honey. This was paired with a cuvée made from Ugni Blanc, Marsanne, Sauvignon and Clairette grapes.

Paul and Deborah Murphy

While Chef David and I will always remember this Culinary Discovery Tour, it was the people we were with that truly made it special. Paul and Deborah Murphy are on their second Oceania Cruise, joining us from Wichita, Kansas. The Murphys shared with us that they are very excited about their Baltic sailing onboard Marina next year. Louis and Christine Lizzadro from Houston are sailing with us for the first time. For a grand finale shared by all, we finished the meal by toasting our good friends Craig and Joanne Houliston, who have sailed with us 18 times. Today was their 30th anniversary, and we were honored that they were celebrating it with their Oceania Cruises family, dining in a vineyard in Provence.

After a very comfortable ride back to the ship, there was a nice break before the introduction to Provençal cooking later that afternoon at the Bon Appétit Culinary Center. With big smiles on their faces upon entering the kitchen, everyone participated in demonstrations and hands-on cooking to put together a simple and very approachable meal of the region: garden vegetables and mesclun salad greens with a Dijon vinaigrette, shrimp Provençal with chickpea-flour-based panisse – very typical of the region – and a classic cherry and plum clafoutis, a popular and easy dessert to make when stone fruit are in season. As an extra treat, Chef David purchased some glistening fresh shark steaks at the market and prepared them in the classic bouillabaisse method for everyone to taste. 

We certainly will cherish these memories forever.

POST FROM THE PRESIDENT: Riviera Returns to Barcelona

This morning Riviera arrived in Barcelona. It was a nostalgic moment for many of us as it was just over a month ago that we christened Riviera in this beautiful city. As we sailed into the port, I confess I got a bit emotional thinking back on all the memories from the christening ceremony.

While we didn’t have much time to explore on our last visit to Barcelona, this time Daniela and I joined a Reunion Cruise shore excursion to visit some of the architectural masterpieces of Antoni Gaudí. First we visited Park Güell, a garden complex filled with Gaudí’s striking designs. Then we saw Gaudí’s most famous creation, the Sagrada Familia. Gaudí died in 1926 before it could be completed, and work continues on the church to this day.

Besides learning about the history of Catalonia, we also made some new friends. Peter and Elle Hecht from New Jersey are on their second Oceania Cruises sailing. They are having a great time and have already booked their third sailing, a Baltic cruise onboard Marina.

After the excursion we stopped for lunch at Marina Moncho’s, which sits right along the sea. The food was spectacular.

 

The pictures say it all. We had gazpacho, baby octopus and paella de mariscos.

Tomorrow we call on Marseille, and Daniela and I are looking forward to experiencing our first Culinary Discovery Tour: The Exquisite Flavors of Provence. There will be more stories from the Reunion Cruise coming soon.

OCEANIA CLUB REUNION CRUISE VISITS CASABLANCA

 

Today Riviera arrived in Casablanca, a unique complement to the European ports of call on this Oceania Club Reunion Cruise. Oceania Cruises President Kunal S. Kamlani, Oceania Club Manager Nick DeSantis (pictured left) and many other guests enjoyed excursions to the enormous Hassan II Mosque, one of Casablanca’s most splendid landmarks.

 

Standing on a promontory overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, the imposing mosque is the largest in Morocco and by some measurements the third largest in the world. It can accommodate up to 105,000 worshippers, including 25,000 at prayer inside and an additional 80,000 outside on the grounds. The minaret is the tallest in the world, soaring to a height of over 210 meters. At night a beam from the minaret shines toward Mecca.

The interior is as impressive as the façade. All of the building materials are from local sources, with the exception of the chandeliers, which are made with Murano glass from Venice. The ceiling of the mosque is made from cedar, all of it elaborately carved by hand.

After the mosque, Riviera guests stopped at the olive market in the Habous Quarter. The variety of olives was astounding with every color, shape and size imaginable. The vendors were very friendly, and guests were able to sample many different kinds of olives. What a treat!

Interestingly, this unique Reunion Cruise itinerary transits the Strait of Gibraltar not once, but twice. Last night Riviera sailed from Gibraltar to Casablanca, and tomorrow she sails for Motril, Spain, where guests will have the opportunity to travel to Grenada and visit the amazing Alhambra. Keep following the blog to read about more adventures on the Oceania Club Reunion Cruise!

REUNION CRUISE VISITS GIBRALTAR

The Oceania Club Reunion Cruise sailed from Lisbon yesterday, and today Riviera called on the British overseas territory of Gibraltar, which is actually a peninsula of mainland Spain. Approximately three miles wide, this small strip of land is dominated by the Rock of Gibraltar, which reaches a height of 1,400 feet. A group from the Reunion Cruise took a shore excursion to go explore the Rock. While you might expect this to be a fairly "tame" tour, think again. Most people had heard of the Barbary Apes that live on the Rock, but no one expected them to jump right onto the bus!

Bud and Stephana Dean from Bossier City, Louisiana, are on their first voyage with Oceania Cruises, and it has been an exciting one so far. They both were surprisingly calm when one of the apes decided to hop onto Bud’s shoulders for a photo op.

They were not the only brave souls that got up close and personal with the apes.

This excursion was certainly a memorable one!

REUNION CRUISE GUESTS ARRIVE IN LISBON

Anticipation is growing by the hour as guests arrive in Lisbon for the 8th Oceania Club Reunion Cruise aboard Riviera. Many guests flew in today, one day prior to sailing, so they could enjoy some extra time exploring Lisbon before boarding the ship. As they checked in to the hotel, they were warmly greeted by the Oceania Cruises Hospitality Desk.

Guests have already been sharing so many terrific stories of their adventures in Lisbon. While we can't share them all, there is one in particular that we wanted to pass along. You guessed it – a food story.

One of our guests came across a pastry shop named Pastéis de Belém and was raving about the delicious tarts. Evidently these delights have quite a storied past. The Pastel de Belém is a crispy puff pastry loaded with a warm custard filling and dusted with cinnamon and powdered sugar on top. Legend has it that a group of monks sold the secret recipe in 1837 to the family that now owns this famous pastry shop. As of today, only three people know the recipe, and we are told that they don't travel together. Next time you’re in Lisbon for an Oceania Cruise, you might want to check this spot out!

CHEF KELLY'S CULINARY DISCOVERY TOUR IN CRETE

Not an article is written about the healthy Mediterranean diet without reference to the diet of the people on the island of Crete. When we developed the Culinary Discovery Tour for Aghios Nikolaos on Crete, we wanted guests to experience the true magic of the foods of Crete. The only way to do that is to get up into the mountains, so we travel to Zaros, high atop Heraklion, about 45 minutes from the port.

On our recent tour, the guide pointed out wild thyme and salvia (sage) growing in massive bunches along the road. We then arrived at a restored Cretan village perched on top of a mountain.

This beautiful village depicted the lives of people who lived in simple but functional homes decorated with beautiful woven goods. Weaving was not only a functional part of life in this village, but it had religious overtones as well. After a stroll through the village we arrived at a lovely, large room where we spent the next few hours cooking and learning about Cretan cuisine.

The menu for this day was dolmadakia (stuffed grape leaves), gemista (stuffed vegetables) and fyllo (stuffed cheese pies). We also prepared rusk with tomato and feta cheese, the food of shepherds.

We started class by gathering around a large table and meeting our hosts, two Cretan women who shared their families’ cooking secrets!

Our first task was to hollow out tomatoes and zucchini so we could stuff them with onions, zucchini, tomatoes and fresh oregano. We quickly learned that the secret to the Cretan diet is olive oil and more olive oil. In fact, one third of the calories in the traditional Cretan diet come from olive oil. (Another factor that may contribute to their general good health is that the average Cretan walks 13 kilometers a day!)

Next the ladies brought out rock-hard bread called rusk, a twice-baked barley bread carried by shepherds into the hills where they tend their flocks for months at a time. We soaked the bread in water for a few seconds to soften it up and then topped the rusk with shredded tomatoes, feta cheese, oregano – and of course, MORE OLIVE OIL. Everyone had a job to do. Below you see one of our guests (a veterinarian from Alaska, no less!) shredding the luscious local tomatoes for the rusk, and Iria from Destination Services sprinkling on the oregano.

 
Next we moved on to the dolmadakia… And what fun that was! We used fresh grape leaves (not the kind in bottles and jars) to wrap our vegetable and rice stuffing. We learned how to hold the grape leaves properly (smooth side down) and not to use too much stuffing. I think we did very well for our first try. Doused in olive oil, of course, they went into the oven to bake for our lunch.

Last but not least were the cheese pies, which looked like cinnamon buns, made with fyllo. (That’s how they spell it!) The dough is made with flour and water and a bit of raki, a local liquor that gives the dough the ingredient it needs to be soft and supple. We learned how to roll out the fyllo and had fun making the swirls when it was filled with the local tart sheep cheese, myzithra.

After all that work, our reward was to enjoy what we made together as a class. We sat at a beautiful table in the courtyard and enjoyed each other’s company as well as the fruits of our labor. We were treated to some local wine and the enchanting hospitality of our hosts.

After the bus ride home, we returned to the village to shop for local oregano, olive oil and Cretan cookbooks. Then we headed back to the Bon Appétit Culinary Center for our “Healthy Mediterranean” cooking class, where we learned several new healthy and savory recipes. We made a white bean hummus with roasted garlic and chickpea crackers, shallow-poach fish with a lemon butter sauce, and a quinoa-semolina-spinach cake.

It is easy to see why the Cretans are so healthy. They live on an idyllic, sunny island with loads of fresh fruits and vegetables and LOTS of olive trees. But as important, they seem to enjoy each other and are always interacting. Our guide was very informed about the vegetation of Crete, and we all enjoyed hearing his stories of growing up on Crete  – what has stayed the same and what has changed.

 

As always, we were thankful to the team of sous chefs in the culinary center who accompanied us on the tour. They enjoyed seeing the vegetation in the village and pointed out that much of it reminded them of their villages at home in India.

The world really is a small place, and food is a wonderful way to bring us closer together!